FGEF302TPWA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

First, I shut the OFF the main breaker. Then, I removed 2 screws holding the thermostat inside the oven. The wiring harness was too short to pull through small opening. I tried to fish the wires out with a piece of wire, but no luck. Eventually, the wiring harness disconnected and I had no choice but to remove entire wall oven from wall cavity.

Before starting this, again, make sure the main breaker is OFF:
1. Remove 2 screws that hold the oven in place. Mine were just below the display panel.
2. Remove silver trim at bottom of oven.
3. The power cable (flexible conduit, running down to the floor inside the cabinet) was too short to pull the oven out of the wall. I had to disconnect the oven wiring at the junction box (again...make sure the main breaker is OFF). I photographed the wiring set-up before disconnecting any wires. Once disconnected, I was able to pull the oven out of the wall cavity.
4. I placed the oven unit on a bar-height stool with a blanket underneath.
5. I removed the sheet metal shield on the back of the oven. (Roughly 10 screws on the sides.)
6. I found the wires to the old thermostat and pulled it through the opening in the back.
7. I disconnected the old thermostat harness, connected the new one.
8. I pushed the new thermostat into the oven and reconnected the 2 screws.
9. Everything looked good. I reassembled the back, slid the oven into the wall.
10. Reconnected the wiring.
11. Turned the breaker back on. Tested and it worked.
12. Secured the stove and installed the trim.

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

Remove two screws in back to release the top.
Lift the top from the back and pull backwards to remove.
Open washer door and unscrew two screws to release the switch.
Reach down inside from the front and remove the switch.
Unplug the switch and replace with the new one. Reverse the process to install.
I found it easier to have someone hold the switch while I screwed it back in.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

I disconnected the power cord,took the top back plate off,the switch knob on the switch I was to change,the two screws holding it.pull the old switch out,place the new one in the holder,replaced the two screws that holds the switch and took the wires off the old switch one at a time and placed them on the new one in order on new switch.replaced the back cover and plugged power cord back in.turned range on,it was good. r taite,

I watched you vedio and done just as the vedio told me how to change the switch. When I got the switch on pluged it in turned it on and every thing work great. thank you very much.

We removed the back of the stove, unscrewed switch from the stove face and unplugged the wires from the old switch. The new switch was universal so I had to follow the numbers by the prong on the old switch to determine which was the correct prong to plug the wires, plugged them in, screwed the switch back to the stove face and replaced the back Viola all fixed.

Took the back off and replaced the switch for that burner. Got alittle nervous because the switch did not look the same and the connectors were labeled differently, but it worked. Lost the red light button some how during the repair so when I turned the stove on sparks came out the back because the light connector was loose so I did have to order another one of those.

Easy to put in but i droped a screw to hold the element. had to pull another screw to fix it

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was able to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.