4899A Frigidaire Range - Instructions

TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER OR UNPLUG FROM SOCKET! Removed back of range panel: easy
Disconnected wires to elements: easy (one broken off)
Replaced connector: easy
Pulled both elements out and replaced: easy
Tested and replaced range back panel: easy

Be careful when handling steel panels...they can cut your hands! Use nutdrivers, they're better than screwdrivers. Use a good flashlight.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

Determined how to proceed to disassemble the console. Unplugged the power cord, shut off the gas valve, removed six philips head screws from back panel and one philips head screw from side panel that held the front glass cover in place. Removed the nut off of the old switch body and the two oven control knobs and the timer/clock knob. Removed the front glass by pulling the right side forward and sliding it slightly to the right. Disconnected the two wires from the back of the old switch.Removed the nut holding the old switch body to the console frame. Replaced with the new switch and did a reassembly by backtracking my steps. I even remembered to clean both sides of the control console glass before reinstalling it. Placed the range back in position, checked it for level, plugged the power cord in and checked for the proper operation of the new switch, turned on the gas and checked for any possible leaks from moving the range. The switch was a perfect match. The picture on the grid paper background really helped in identifying the switch that I needed.

2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.

purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

Unplug the stove or disconnect at the breaker. Open the oven and remove the bake racks. Using a nut driver (or Phillips Screwdriver) remove the screws (one per side) that secure the bake element. Place them in a safe/secure place outside of the oven. Carefully pull straight back on the element until about 3 inches of the wire, that connects to the element, is exposed. Carefully unplug the wire from each element (make sure that the wire does not pull back into the oven insulation. I placed a small metal clip on each wire). Remove the old element and plug the new one in. Put everything back in the exact same way you took the old one out. Power the oven up and preheat your oven. Monitor this - should be no problem at all. Very simple process. My first attempt at this and it was very easy.

It was a replace racks not repair. No problem

i used a screwdriver to remove the old drip pans and broken surface element in addition to prepping the bracket for the door. It was extremely difficult for me to find these parts for the frigidaire oven but these fit perfectly! I was extremely pleased with how quick it was to replace or fix everything. I will definitely order again when the other surface elements go!

Watched the video

my husband did the repair.He unplugged the stove removed the element and installed the new element.plugged the stove in and checked operation of element.Stove works great

snapped the new piece of plastic in its place and ta da, its fixed.