2420A Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Working on an old oven is difficult. Please expect the unexpected. The years of heating and cooling play havoc with oven parts. The screws holding the Flat Style Oven Ignitor become stripped. It took extra time to remove them. I had to go to the hardware store to buy replacement screws. Once I removed the old parts and had replacement screws the job was very easy.

My Tappan Tail:

Open the oven and remove the racks, turn on the oven light.
Remove two screws in the back to remove the bottom plate. Mine are about 1 1/4 in. long.
Remove one nut holding the butterfly plate in place. Ignitor will be exposed.

Turn off the oven light and unplug oven. Don't drop the plug behind the oven, I was ready for that one.
Drop light or flash light will be needed, it's dark in there. And something to sit on, 16" old plastic milk caddy, I just happen to have one.

Remove the two screws holding the ignitor, don't cut the wires just yet. Take note where the wiring runs. Install the new ignitor. My wires went behind the gas piping.

I cut the bottom wire from the old ignitor first, up close to the ceramic. Wire shield can be reused, slide it over the new wire. Cut the old wire, leave a lot. Trim the new wire to desired length and strip the ends of both and use the ceramic cap and connect the wires.
Do the top wire.
Slide the wire shield next to the igniter, adjust the wires so the wire shields won't slide away from ignitor. With the butterfly shield back in place it's time to plug it in and give it a test.
Nice.
Replace the bottom plate of oven, screw holes hard to find. Had to use an awl to find the holes to line up the screws. I also didn't push the front of the plate down into place until I had the screws started. It helped.

You might think this is overkill, but how many of us have ever replaced the ignitor. Not me.
I do a lot of DIY's. I'll rate this as a 1, easy.

What shall I bake first, cornbread of course. I my cast iron skillet.

Opened the oven door, removed the racks. Removed the bottom cover, two thumb screws in the rear, bottom, of the oven. This exposed the top plate of the burner, (actually in the top of the broiler section) 1 nut took this cover off. Now, the burner and the igniter are exposed. Two screws removed the igniter, and two wires with ceramic wire nuts. Disconnected these two wires and that was it. Installed the new igniter in reverse procedure as above. Pretty easy. Probably should have turned off the power to the Range first just to be safe.

Remove bottom plates and deflector from oven, remove old igniter. Remove bottom drawer and panel to expose wiring. Cut wires, used supplied wire nuts to splice. The time consuming part of this job was having to clean all the parts before reassembly, and having to extract screws that were rusted into place due to heat and spillage. One of the igniter screws was stripped, and was very difficult to remove. The first part in your "probably cause" list was the right one! Thanks for the good service, and a useful website!

See other posts.... they have the correct repair procedures.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND removing the bottom drawer to access the space where splice will be made between new igniter wires and existing wires. This step is recommended in previous posts. I wasted a lot of time taking out unnecessary stuff in the oven compartment before I realized that the drawer compartment provided easy access for repair. Story of my life on just about all repairs.

Disconnected power cord to range
Removed the cover over the flame guard
Removed the Flame guard
Pulled out broiler drawer
Unscrewed the cover and disconnected the white plastic connector to the ignitor wires
Un crewed the two small screws to the ignitor and removed the old ignitor
Cut the two wires from the old ignitor
Connected the new ignitor to the wires on the white connector
Installed the new ignitor
Reassembled parts dsassembled
Plugged in power cord

Works

Having already removed the old igniter , replaced it with new.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

Really easy to do, did not have to bring stove out from the wall! Turn power off to the stove. Remove the lower drawer. Remove the oven rakes. With a slotted screwdriver remove two screws in back of bottom oven cover, use 1/4 inch socket to remove two screws in front. Remove bottom oven cover. You can then see the part to be removed which has two wires going into it, the unit looks identical to the new part which heats up and lights the gas grill for the oven. I cut the two wires from the old part, remember which is the upper and lower; remove two screws holding onto part. Wire new part remembering top and bottom. Push extra wire down into bottom drawer and then mount new part with two screws. Turn power back on and try oven. Lite right away for me so I knew I had replaced the bad part. Reassemble and Enjoy!!

I determined the safety valve must be defective. The model number of the Okeefe-Merrit/Tappan/Frigidaire/Electrolux stove (27 yrs old) could not be found online nor at Frigidaire's parts call center. However, due to Partselect's most helpful picture parts pages, I was able to find my valve with the part number clearly showing for me to see. No picture, no resolution. The info sheet with the part was beneficial and placement time was 15 minutes.

I raised the cook top and removed the fuse in the back, right corner and shut off gas at front left corner. After using meter to be sure there was no power, I marked the wires as front and back, disconnected them using needle nose, disconnected gas line using two wrenches, removed three screws in retaining bracket before sliding unit out. Installation was the reverse.

With fuse replaced before installation I measured 120 volts across the two wires. (Don't try to do it hot.) When attached to the valve the measure went down to 2.9 volts. After installation and all restored, it took about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes for ignition.

I may have saved myself the purchase of a new stove just now, but after 27 years I think she is going to want a new kitchen. It was worth the repair and Partselect was prompt with the delivery. Happiness returns to a disgruntled cook.

first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arrived early than anticipated.

take off the old by unsceawing it scraw thenew one onput the wires down the back throw the hole put the wires to gather and cap tham plug the elect. back in and turn it on for to test it wow it worked he he ...richard

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...
And re-connected the same way.
Peice of cake..

Thank You..

Turned the gas and the electricity off to the gas range. Took the two large screws out in the back of the range holding on the first pan. Have to look for them. Took off the single nut holding on the second pan. Used nut drive #10 to take off nuts. Be careful you do not lose them. Took off inoperative unit. Cut wires to unit. Stripped wires which connect to range. Put new unit on and tightened nuts with nutdriver. Spliced wires together and put on wire nuts securely. Taped them to the wires. Put the second pan back, then the first pan. Turned on gas and electricity to test.
Worked fine. Found that the old unit was cracked and had a piece missing. Must use flashlight. Be safe.

took out the cove plate inside oven. romoved old igniter load.cutt and stripped new wire to new ignighter , using ceramic wire nuts supplied. reinstalled all and voila. it's as good as new. PS just for safety sake always unplug appliance from power.