FEF363BXAWA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I follow the video on your site

in the bottom of the oven when I was looking to see what was going on. My husband did the repair just as the video described. I suspect this part honeycomb round maybe ceramic piece goes over where the heat is vented from the oven. Where do I get another one of these and how does it attach in the oven-under the burner. HELP I tried to look on the schematics and did not see anything. The repair went fine, except when we turned everything back on it did not work. Then my husband remembered he forgot to plug the new part IN. Once plugged in it is working fine. Thanks

Got a copy of the parts breakdown for the oven door from partselect. Com. Removed 8 screws from outer frame (3 top, 3 bottom, 1 on eah side). Removed the main glass pane from oven door, be careful when doing this as this is most of the weight of the door. It will want close on its own due to lack of weight. Removed the 2 top screws that attach the handle. Removed some screws from some plates that retain the 2 panes of glass of glass. Removed the third (most inner, broken) pane of glass. Replaced with new one. Reversed disassebly procedure for assembly.

First we turned off the electic, then we took the back off the stove and pulled the wire off the bad element then replace the new element. It was very easy to do.

I had open back cover and remove the switch than replace new switch. Makesure cable conection.

Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson

There were only 2 screws that held the door handle & cap in place, removed screws & handle to get cap pieces off. Ordered new cap, - lost screws - cap delivered - no screws had to order screws, damn! They're expensive too !! Got screws, installed handle & cap, now wife is happy again!

Drank a beer, grabbed a screwdriver & tried to remove the two screws that held the element in place. The screws were old and when I turned them, they stripped instantly. This required another beer. Eventually I used pliers to grip the sides of the screws to remove and reinsrt them. When I finished the oven worked great, so I celebrated with another beer.

I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

It took me more time to find the right tool then to remove and replace the element. If I can do it anybody can do it. Removed two (2) screws with a nutdriver. Detached the element replaced with new element and replaced screws. Easy job!

just put in slot

It's a simple project. Remove old element and replace it with new one. Access is easy. Only one tool needed. What impressed me was how fast the part got here, like the next day after I ordered it.

I simply followed the instructions in your video. i shut down the power to the oven via the breaker panel, removed the two quarter inch screws with a nut driver, pulled out the old element exposing the two wire leads,disconnected one lead at a time and duct taped each lead to the oven wall,. Then removed the old element and replaced the new one in reverse order. Voila! It works great. This is the second element I replaced in this oven over the years. This site was prompt on shipping the new element (about 3 days since I ordered on a Sunday).. It was well packed and arrived on time and I even got an e-mail letting me know it arrived! How cool is that?! I've been a customer for a few years now and plan to be a "forever" customer. Thanks for saving the day! You ROCK!

Removed rear panal, removed screws from of switch. Unplued wires and installed new switch and put back together. Very easy.