PLGF389CCD Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Through an extensive web search of parts suppliers, I discovered a top burner knob in production that had the same shaft measurements as the original discontinued model. Once the ordered replacements arrived, it was a simple matter of removal and replacement.

Unplugged the appl. I removed the bottom of the oven. Disconnected the two wires. Removed two screws that hold the element in place. Replaced it. And put everything back together. Since this element goes bad about every year an a half, I keep one on hand all the time.

Removed the broiler compartment door by depressing the slide stops inward and pulling the door off. Turned off the breaker to the oven. Used a nut driver to remove the old ignitor ( 2 screws ). Cut the wires off the old ignitor close to the porclin. Measured the new ignitor wires to match up with the old ignitor wires and cut them. Stripped 3/8 " off ends of newely cut wires of the ignitor and used the supplied wire nuts to secure them together. Replaced the new ignitor with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven and a cooking I went.

Remove two screws from bottom of inside oven door slide oven door up of hinges in side of door has 2 more screws when removing hold handle it does come off at very bottom of door remove all screws cover comes off remove new glass from package and place over brackets put oven door cover back on put screws back on slide back on bracket put last screws on

1 - I unplugged the oven/ stove connection.
2 - Removed 2 screws and lifted it out the floor of the oven.
3 - Removed the nut holding down the flame guard and lifted it out.
4 - Removed 2 screes that held igniter in place.
5 - cut the wires for igniter.
6 - Stripped new wires with the nuts connector.
7 - Installed new igniter with 2 screws.
8 - Put it all back together step 3 & 2.
9 - Plugged in the oven/stove connection.
10 - Turn on the oven and works perfectly.
11 - My wife and daughter happy and ready to bake.

I removed the bottom of the oven and flame guard for access to the ingniter. I then replaced the ingniter. The oven works like new now.

replaced it

I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

took drawer out, removed tin covers, found igniter and removed,snipped off parts to put on new igniter ,wirenutted old to new put back together ,we had ignition! all in all pretty easy job! detailed instructions that came with new part were easy to follow and precice

I first removed the 2 screws that held the oven floor in place. Once removed, I remove the cover plate that covered the ignitor.

In order to get to the ignitor wires, I had to remove the drawer. Once the drawer was removed, I marked which wire went to which spot on the ignitor, then cut the wires. I then removed the old ignitor by removing 2 screws. I then attached the new ignitor with the 2 screws and attached the wires using the enclose wire nuts.

The complete process was very easy, taking less than half an hour. The part with shipping was just over $50. If I paid someone to fix my problem it would have cost at least $200. I'm sure galad I found this web site.

Checked voltage supply to oven igniter, had 120 v
to oven igniter, but igniter was not glowing.