FGS366EBC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Unplugged the appl. I removed the bottom of the oven. Disconnected the two wires. Removed two screws that hold the element in place. Replaced it. And put everything back together. Since this element goes bad about every year an a half, I keep one on hand all the time.

First unplugged the oven from the wall and then I removed the bottom floor of the oven by removing the two screws at the back. Then I removed the heat shield over the burner by remove the two screws at the front of the oven and removed the nut in the middle of the heat shield that was hold the shield to the burner. I removed the two screws on the flat oven igniter and cut the two wires on the igniter and pulled the two wires through the open in the bottom oven from the drawer opening. Mounted the new igniter and feed the two wire from the igniter through the open in the bottom of the oven, Stripped the two wires that I cut from the oven, twisted the new wires to the old, and put the wire nuts on. Last I put everything back together and baked dinner. Took ten about minutes and saved a thousand dollars because I was going to buy a new oven. Thanks, Partselect.

I removed the bottom of the oven and flame guard for access to the ingniter. I then replaced the ingniter. The oven works like new now.

replaced it

I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

After trying to unscrew a plate on the side, I found that would NOT work at all, the side panel of the stove was behind it. I found a tab that cut-out on 3 sides just above the location of the recepticle, and simply bent that tab out, pulled out the old recepticle, slid in the new recipticle, and put in the screws and then bent back the tab. It was sooo easy once I found that. I repeated in on the other side.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

pulled bottom door out as far as you can. lift out broiler tray and the tray under that. to get the door completely out. on each side of the rail holding the door from come out push in the tap on each side and pull the door all the way out and off. reach inside and take out two nuts holding the old igniter and cut the two wires and remove it
stripe about 1/4 in of the wire. attache the wire from the new igniter. hold them two and use the white cap and twist it on the two wires and do the same to the other two wires. Bolt the igniter back on with the two bolts and your done. When you turn on the oven the igniter will click and turn on. it will be alot brighter then the old one and the oven will start pretty fast.

I replaced both gas valve and igniter. I removed oven door and bottom of oven for easy access to both. The door slid off easy and the bottom was held by two thumb screws. I removed the gas flare for easy access to igniter & valve. I then removed the igniter & valve using nutdriver, phillips screwdriver and adj wrench. I then followed simple instructions supplied for wire connect on igniter and valve. It was a very easy job for a 25 yr old stove. I made the mistake of ordering only the valve and ordered the igniter later. Having both new parts causes the oven to light in about 30 seconds. Im glad I found partselect online. Nh, westerville, oh

My husband was able to easily remove the old part, and replace with the new ignitor. The wires were long, so he took the extra precaution of tying them away from the flame. It took longer to take everything out and put it back together than the actual repair..

Followed service sheet. Measured 2.6 amps draw at igniter wire which should have been 3.2 amps. Replaced igniter and problem resolved.

Unplug appliance. Remove the bottom of the oven (2 screws in back of oven bottom), remove burner cover (2 screws in front and nut in center holding burner). Pull out the bottom storage drawer under the oven and unplug both wires from oven Igniter which are located in the back. One wire plugs into the gas valve and the second wire went into a connector that was on the lower left. I removed the screw on the back oven wall that held the burner so I could remove the burner for ease of work. Remove two screws holding the old igniter. The two screws holding the igniter to the side of the burner were stripped and they took a little time to remove but I replaced them with two new screws I had in my misc. screw drawer and had no issue. Cut the top wire and splice it onto the top wire of the new igniter using the porcelain wire nuts provided. Do the same with the bottom wire. Re-assemble and plug back in. Everything worked perfectly.