CGLGF388DBE Frigidaire Range - Instructions

We took off all of the bolts holding the burner assembly's in place . Then took the top of the s range off. Used a wrench to remove the old assembly and re-placed it with the new one. It took longer to get all of the top and under cover off then to put the new part in. Very good service from Part Select. MATT

I removed the two back screws, slid out the old panel, then fitted in the new panel (it fit perfectly) and replaced the screws. Five minutes, tops.

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair

open door,throw the door latches at the hinges and remove door. Take the out of the outer panel so you can separate the glasses. remove clip that hold the outer glass in place. I ordered a replacement glass as I never thought that it would come clean it looked so bad, but it cleaned up like new so I now have a spare glass for my oven door. Just reverse the way you take it apart to put it back together.

removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range

Pull out stove. Unplug power. Remove four screws on each corner and loosen one screw in the middle. Remove back panel. Locate and unplug sensor connector. Remove one screw from sensor plate. Turn the sensor 45 degrees and pull sensor out from the rear. Connector received had the incorrect plug and terminals so it was necessaary to splice the connector from the one removed to the one received. Cut and splice wires as necessary. Install sensor, install back panel, plug in electrical power, push stove back into position. I used a temperature gauge to check temperature after stove was in position. In my case the temperature had to be adjusted which is a keyboard function on this unit.

remove belly pan ,pull draw out easy acsess remove screws and replace

Pulled oven from counter space unplugged unit unscrewed 9 - 1/4" tech screws then one more 1/4" tech screw that holds the sensor.Inserted the new element cut the two wire because it was a different connection stripped the wires and did the same to the old element but used the old plug.Connected the plug,plugged the over back in slid the unit back and turned out on for a test.All is well,thank you!

changed the orfices with a 10mm socket and driver handle used an adjustable wrench to tighten the orfice in the bottom of the oven approximately 45 minutes we were using the range

Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.

removded 2 screws at rear of panel, moved panel toward rear of oven, lifted up and out. Slid in new panel in front groove then lowered onto oven floor and secured it with the 2 screws at rear of oven.

Gas stove worked, as well as brolier, but oven did not turn on at all. Replacing the bake igniter part did the trick. It is a simple operation, 30 minutes tops normally. In my case the screw was originally installed a little crooked and had caused it to strip and wouldn't come out. As a result, I had to also remove the gas pipe that the igniter was attached to in order to forcibly remove the screw and detach the old bake igniter. This is what caused the extra time and difficulty.

Delivery was fast. Two screws to remove the old oven panel. Slipped in the new panel and tightened the screws with my fingers. Job completed. It was as easy as that.

This is a slide in oven fully contained not in a wall, or wood enclosure. I slid the unit out away from the wall unplugged the power cord, used the nut driver to remove a dozen screws, not all of them, you dont need to pull the top back plate off just unscrew the bottom 3-4 screws on the top plate to release the lower back cover plate and you see the probe wire and the insertion point/hole. I actually did not even need to pull the full back plate off but it makes the handling of all the tools and stripping easier. I wish they had just left the plug off of the new probe and had left the 2 loose ends of the 2 wires that had to be spliced, it would have saved 15 minutes just with that part. If you dont have a real splicer tool ya gotta be careful to not cut the wires themselves if you use a sharp knife. Just cut the new probe plug off and splice on the old plug from the bad sensor which obviously you have cut and strip as well as I did and then it fits nicely back together like it was ment to be. I put elect tape on the 2 splices, you could use small wire nuts or whatever you desire, but turn the exposed splices back away from each other and tape them to the insulated wire so no exposed wire is touching any metal then I wrapped the completed taped splices with about a 4x5 piece of aluminum foil to help deflect the residual heat coming from the oven when it is on. put the probe through the hole and placed the metal retainer back in place and re- mounted the back panel plate,cover, that was it problem solved. This entire problem was caused originally in this relatively new oven because people who have been using the oven were sitting heavy pots and pans on the oven door and the hinges were sprung. The door would not stay shut during cooking. I dont know how long this had been going on before I discovered the issue. Once I replaced the hinges ( parts select ) the uneven, wrong temp, extended cooking problem jumped up. I am certain it was related to the open door not shutting for several months. They were using a bungie cord to pull the door closed and not completely. At this point I feel very comfortable with using parts select for all my appliance parts and advice. The folks here at my facility think I am an Einstien but when you have parts select working with you in the background you can't go wrong. I asked a hundred questions and learned alot and saved the facility at least 400 dollars by doing it myself. Thanks to my new work buddy PARTS SELECT. I was really a bit apprehensive about the doors hinges they looked dangerous and might have been but the tech I spoke with at P.S. walked me through it on the phone and I read the blogs which are really helpfull SORRY THIS ONE IS SO LONG.

I followed the you tube www.partselect.com. Got door off--easy, and other parts off--easy, as you tube shows--I used the adj wrench to remove old screws--there are two--front one off--easy, the rear one was stripped at factory installation--so got it out, but broke it off in the process. So I had to drill out the part of the screw that remained, and then used a substitute screw (8-32x1/2) on re-assembly. Re-assembly went easy--note that the removal of electrical connection is a "pinch-squeeze" to pull off.