FEF455BBF Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Replaced element no problem?

I ordered the element. When it arrived, I simply removed the old one and put in the new one. However, it did not completely solve the problem. The heat is now distributed evenly, but still have to turn the burner to 7.5 to boil water.

Took screws loose, unplugged old one plugged in new one put screws back

I could not find the larger size universal drip bowl to fit the 8" burners on my stove. This product replacement is perfect.

I went to all of the do-it yourself stores and spent a bunch of money on aftermarket drip pans only to find out that none of them fit. I came up on your website and also called customer service. The found the right part and mailed it too me. They fit perfectly. No more burnt and rusty drip pans. I know where to go for parts now.

After two failed attempts to get the 'correct' drip pans for my range from two other supply outlets, Part Select had the proper drip pans for this model. They fit perfectly! Simple installation and threw away those cheap, poorly fitting replacement pans I've put up with for three years! Thanks Part Select for having the correct parts!!

The parts came quickly. I removed old drip pans and snapped the new ones into place. A child could do this. Now my cooktop looks new and I am not ashamed for anyone to see it.

I ordered the exact replacement element, and after unpacking it, it took about 5 minutes (actually,less; didn't time it), and the new element was installed and working fine.Thank you very much.

they were for my 90 year old mom. she dropped them in by herself, perfect fit....thanks very much

Replaced the switch...removed old switch and transferred the wires one at a time to the new switch. Seems to working fine..

Figured out that light and door switch started the convection fan on when door is closed. Found the switch defective. Found exploded view online of switch in oven. Had to figure out that the range top needed to be removed to access the switch from inside the top part of oven. Unscrewed at least (6) screws to free up the range top. Squeezed the inside switch clips to allow switch to be pulled out from outside of oven. Disconnected electrical receptacle and plugged into new switch. Pushed in new switch til it snapped into place. Reinstalled range top.

Used a screw driver to loosen 2 screws and the pulled the tabs off the old element and installed the new element. I am probably the most "unhandy " guy in the world but this was a snap. I am as surprised as anyone.

Pull range unit from wall. Disconnect power cord. Remove back panel on range(10 Phillips head screws). Pull knob from surface burner switch and remove two screws. Remove and re-connect wires from switch by number on switch. Replace switch and back range panel. Re-connect power cord and re-position range to original spot.

Our neighbor, who is an electrician, watched the video on how to install. Since this switch was substituted, he paused the video several times to see how the wires should be attached. It worked.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.