FFGF3013LBA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

replaced temp probe per your suggestion. No improvement! checked both heating elements with ohm meter. OK Next suggestion was replace circuit boards. Bought new range for less than cost of 2 oven/range control boards.

Pulled stove away from the wall and unplugged it. Removed probe and cut the wires because the connection clip on the new probe was different from the original. Leave the wires as long as possible because you will need the extra length to splice the clip from the old probe to the wires on the new one. Replaced probe and plugged the oven back in. Done.

The gasket just snapped in place. The first one I ordered was, my fault, the wrong one and I returned it and got the correct one two days later.

removed back. discovered wrong connector on probe. Cut the connectors off and spliced with small butt connector. Took me longer to find the tools and connector than to do the repair. The wires are very small and require a very small butt connector. Tips by the sales rep and previous customer were helpful. Great service. Will try PartSelect for Cub Cadet and Yamaha OB parts. Thanks. John

I thought it was the temperature sensor. I was wrong it was the e. O. C. It wasn't that hard to change,just alot of small screws. Once I plugged it in I tryed to turn on the oven it turned on right away. Only thing is I wish the part was cheaper & also there should have been a white cover on it. Not peel off the old one and re-use it???? The oven is only 2yr's old, but never the less it got fixed. . . Works fine now.

The Conversion Kit was throughall with extra fittings and good instructions. My problem was haveing to pay a lisence gas installer $65.00 an hour to do a safety & pressure test. Maybee future Conversion kits would include a cheap disposable pressure tester with hose, then it would be a complete done job by the owner.

I was replacing a range oven hood, so I pulled the oven away from the wall but left it plugged in. I removed the old oven hood, which had an exhaust pipe that was still mounted through the cupboard. While I was preparing the new oven hood the exhaust pipe fell out of the cupboard and cut the oven wire in half. I was able to find the part number on the existing cord and looked up on line. I ordered the part using 3-5 business days and it showed up in 2 days. I was able to attach the new cord, which had an easy clip plug, and secure back to the stove. Very easy and very inexpensive to do.

Bought a electric range/oven with a broken glass in the door cheaply because the owner didn't think they could fix the glass. I watched the video on You Tube on how to handle the spring loaded hinges and followed the steps as presented. The toughest part of the job was cleaning all the crud on all of the glass due to the gap in the inner glass. I had to use a square drive and a phillips head screwdriver to disassemble and reassemble the door. It took less than 30 minutes to complete the job and most of that time was cleaning the glass.

I replaced the oven control board. I used the old overlay because I could not find a model # but I was able to locate the exact replacement part. it took some to find, but it paided off.Thanks for your help. I Got the replacement part # from the old control board.

Unplug the stove from the wall socket. Remove the oven door as shown in the instructions for replacing the door. This makes the job a lot easier. At the rear of the bottom panel there is a screw at each corner. Remove these screws, a screwdriver will loosen them, then remove by hand. If you have a convection oven remove the fan cover as this prevents the bottom panel from coming out. There is a screw at the top and the bottom of the cover. You can then gently lift the bottom panel at the rear and work it out of the front lip. Install the new bottom panel in reverse order.

We turned off the gas, moved the stove out from the wall and unplugged it. Then we removed the metal back (using an adjustable wrench because we didn't have a square headed screwdriver.) We then removed the four screws that had held the clock/timer in place before the plastic shattered. We inserted the new part and reinserted the screws. Then we replaced the back cover. When we plugged the range back in and set the clock everything worked beautifully.

I pulled the top cover from inside the oven off and unscrewed 2 screws to remove the heat plate. After i unplugged the adapter for the old ignitor apart and unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws that hole the ignitor to the plate. i replaced with the new ignitor, screwed back in place , plugged the 2 wires and the adaptor plug in and i was done , in less that 30 mins.. I also saved $180 (Sears $260) on this do it yourself repair.. Thanks PartSelect for having the part in stock.... R Diaz (Bklyn N.Y.)

The foul order was the cause of a "Mummified Rat" that I found on the bottom Left /outside wall of the oven. I first Unplugged the stove and turned off the gas. I removed the grates and the burners. Each burner is held down with two (2) 3/16" screws which makes it a total of eight (8) screws in all. After removing all eight screws, you can now pop up the burner lid with a putty knife or a large Screw Driver. I used a large screw driver, After removing the "Lid" you will then see the "Insulation Blanket" draped over the oven, to remove this blanket there are two (2) copper wires securing the blanket in place, you'll have to cut these in order to install your New Blanket. Removing the "Blanket " is a "No Brainer" just be cautious and don't snag any of the "Igniter Wires" The "Insulation Blanket" goes on one way, this can be identified by the pre-cuts on the blanket. I started out on the left side of the stove, and had the right side of the "Blanket rolled up. As I tucked the "Blanket" under the "igniter Wires" and slowly and gently feeding it with my left hand till it lines up with the pre-cut and drapes itself into place as you maneuver it down with your hands Now start with the right side by unrolling the "Blanket" and following the same procedure making sure the "Insulation Blanket" is fully extended on both sides of the oven.

Would have been simple if Frigidare had not changed the plastic snap wire connector on the part. The replacement part had a different snap together wire connection. After a couple of phone calls stating that the new part and the old part had different part numbers was informed that you have to snip off the ends and use wire connects but it was the right part. Once I knew that it was a simple repair if you have the wire connects to connect the wires.

Replaced temp probe and checked OK. This model did not have a full back as the instructional video showed. No cover to remove at all. Only suggestion might be to include two wire nuts of proper size. Average wire nut would be too big. Fortunately, I happened to have a couple.