FFGF3013LWD Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.

Followed your video and it was not hard at all

Easy installation using a nut driver and a Phillip screwdriver.plug in harness connector and done.

Open the door and slide in the new rack.

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

Took out old screws and replaced with new

YouTube video I used was for a newer version of the same model stove. Door did not have latches to remove it. It was fairly easy getting to the old igniter but a bit of a struggle getting to unplug it, as the connector was behind a small metal shield in the bottom left corner of the oven. Because I couldn’t remove the oven door, it made it more difficult to undo the screw holding it in. I finally did, and from that point it went smoothly. I was worried that I was going to access it from the back, but I didn’t need to. I installed the new one, turned gas back on, moved the stove back to position, and turned on the oven. Very happy to have succeeded, adding a few more years to the stove and saving money for the installation of the igniter.

Removed the metal cover on the back of the range by unscrewing the square-drive screws around the perimeter, left the center screw until the end to make it easier to hold for removal.

The control unit was held in with 4 Philips head screws, and connected by a single wire-to-board connector. Unplugged the connector and removed the screws and the control unit came right out.

The replacement unit doesn't come with a face plate, so I used a razor blade to carefully remove it from my old unit. The adhesive that held it on was still sticky so I was able to easily attach it to the new unit.

Then I just put everything back together in reverse order. One of the easiest appliance prepares I've done.

Watched a half dozen You Tube Videos before I saw the Exact one-Submitted by a Woman-Super Easy-Had the Exact Part from this site!

I used the tutorial as a guide, and went ahead with the repair. Because of the older model I was working on there were many more screws to remove, not a problem the repair was simple.

moved the stove forward and removed old cord by uncruing two small screw and on ploged the all and replaced with the new one.

The electric was the next step it worked.

replaced it

I saw a chart of the oven door at site after I finally got the model number. I actually thought I had ordered the wrong part, third door in was last pane I thought, but actually this is inner most oven door, glass panel four. I had to find a correct screw diver which took awhile. I thought I didn't have the strength to turn the necessary screws, but easily could with correct screw driver. I followed other stories about removing handle, spring loaded door, so be careful it pops apart. A bit tricky to put back together, cause you have to hold door together against spring when you put cap on and door handle. Remove handle, remove top plastic cap. Will see screws holding glass and aluminum shield in place. Remove shield, need to remove screws holding glass two panes with holder. Shield pulls back and this glass just drops in. Reassemble door.

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)