FEFB79GBB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

On this website, I found an instruction manual for this stove. There were 2 pages about how to change the glass on the oven door, including diagrams. I'd also checked a generic youtube video on changing inner glass on oven doors too, although the hinges in the youtube demo weren't exactly like those in mine. I printed out the instructions, checked the oven door to make sure the hinges looked like those in the diagrams, set aside a couple of hours on a free day with no other distractions, and did the job. I just kept removing screws from the inside oven door, peeling back the layers of the onion, until I got to the innermost glass, which was cracked. Put the new glass in, put it back together. On youtube the guy said it would take 20 minutes. It took me about an hour. Saved a ton of money by doing it myself.

replaced it

Called fridgidaire and they told me the a F31 code means my temperature sensor is not working.
So I ordered one online. I installed it and I still have F31 code and still won't work. So what now? Do I trust them to tell me another part?

Removed old fan and replaced with new fan. To replace fan, the over interior fan blade was removed, then the two slip on wires were removed from the old fan motor, then the three screws securing the old fan motor were removed. The process was reversed to install replacement fan

I unplugged the Stove/Oven electrical cord from the wall, then removed the oven door by unlocking the door brackets with a flat head screw driver then closing the door to the last position before it closes and removing the door from the stove (found instructions on YouTube - very easy, which is optional), then removed the oven racks. Removing the door made it a lot easier to access the broil element and element support bracket screws using a socket wrench. I removed the screws from the rear cover on the back of the stove with a socket wrench to access and disconnect the broil element wires with my hand (pliers if needed). I removed the old broil element and inserted and reconnected the new broil element wires, then re-installed the rear cover. I tightened the broil element in place then re-installed the element support bracket and screws, replaced the oven racks, re-installed the oven door and plugged the stove into the wall. This took about twenty minutes and the broil element is working fine.

I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

Took bolts out of back of oven ,pull out element had take electric clips off .Then I just plugged in the element ,push in and tighten up bolts. Turn oven on IT Works Yea!!!!!

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

Followed video instructions on your web site.Removing one wire at a time as suggested simplified installation.Somehow i lost burner lens indicator.Ordered it from your website cost $3.84 plus shipping recieved in one day. GREAT SERVICE

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.

First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was able to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.

The video was a great help. I could have replaced the switch without watching it, but it gave me confidence that I was doing it right. Everything went just like he said it would. Burner seems to work better now and no more scary noises.