FFEF3013LWE Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)

real easy with no problems, thank you

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

To find problem. I turn the power off to range. Removed top back panel. Removed switch and found there was a black spot on white covering of switch. So I order a switch. When it came I turn power off to range. Removed the top panel on back of range. Removed one wire at a time and put it on the new switch. Once all wires were on new switch. I removed old switch and installed new one. I then reinstalled the top back panel and turned the power back on. It is really easy to do. If you are not confident enough. Take a picture of the back of range before removing the panel. Then take a picture of the wires before you remove them.

When you order make sure and get a new faceplate also. I didn't realize it was glued on .Whne I pealed it off part of the white stayed on the old control,looks bad but works fine.Unplug Range, Take 4 screws off of top panel on back,I left all wires hooked up and removed 4 more screws holding the control panel in place.I rolled it out of the way put the face plate on the new one and screwed it into place. Then took each wire off one at a time and hooked thenm to the new one. Reattatch the back and test it out..You now have a happy woman.

Statistics said it was the element. I replaced that this did not correct problem. Went with the second statistic and it was correct. I showed the video to my tenant and he replaced it and called me in a few minutes saying it worked fine. Look at the video then it will be easy for you. The only thing in the video that was not clear is that you have to peel the sticker off of the front of the old clock and attach it to the new one. Everything else is exactly like it says.

First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was able to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.

Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.

The infinite switch arrived promptly and while not a perfect match fit the range fine. It took me a few extra minutes to figure out the wiring configuration, but it was fairly easy. I was very pleased with Parts Select's service.

I read some other's repairs from this site with similiar symptoms. Take off the back takes a couple of minutes. Turn off power at the breaker of course the range is 220 volts. Remove the 4 screws holding the clock timer. Carefully remove the clock front as not to damage it. It has a flexible glue that holds it. You may need to take a knife to get it started. Line it up and stick it on the new clock timer, there will be plenty of glue left to hold it. Remove wires one at a time and place them on the new board as you go until you have all leads changed to the new board. Put the new timer in place and insert the 4 screws that hold it.Turn it on and the clock should be flashing. Reset the clock and you should be ready to go! I turned on the oven and it worked! I saved myself a about $250 by doing it myself. $85 for a service call and whatever they would decided to mark up for the clock timer. 20 minutes start to finish. It really was an easy fix!

Replaced the control I got from you , even though it was a little different the lugs matched up and works great.

Looked up the appliance and the suspect part.(clock/timer). It described the part and what problem it would fix.(no power to oven) Part shipped very fast and installation was quick and easy!!! They even had a installation video!! You can`t get any better than that!!!

watched the veido first then un pluged the stove then i took out 6 screws and 2 from the switch and reversed every thing

Large burner would cycle on and off per temp setting a few times. Then it would stick on high. Read other problems people had with the burner switch, which helped to determine the problem. Instillation per video was pretty straight forward; but the issue I ran into was when pulling off the wires from old switch, there was a short wire which connected to the indicator light. The abrupt release yanked the wire which caused the lens indicator to snap. So, when you are repairing the switch, be aware if there is enough slack in the wires to prevent that issue