FEFL68GMH Frigidaire Range - Instructions

My husband followed the video instructions and it was easy to fix.

Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.

pulled oven out, unplugged, unscrewed element attachment to the back of the oven (from the inside). element did not work. we tested the upper element and that did not work either. the burst of sparks, heat and flame from the shorting of the original element caused damage to the computer board. we called a local repair man to change the computer board, and then the unit worked, with our new element that we replaced!

After replacing the oven temp sensor, with no success of correction, i purchased and installed the electronic control board. After turning off the power at the breaker and unplugging the stove, I simply removed the top back cover, unclipped the wiring harness, unhooked the 5 oven element wires(writing the color and order for easier reconnection), removed the screws, carefully peeled the face plate off the old control board and re-installed everything in reverse order. Took me all of ten minutes and the oven works like new again.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.

The light apparatus was loose behind the panel. Remove the remaining part of the lens. Install the new lens from the outside of the panel and hold it in position, protruding into the inside of the panel. Slide the light apparatus onto the lens from the inside, allowing the bracket to hold it in place - it will be spring loaded, which will hold it in place.

Took out 2 screws, removed panel.
When you put the panel in don’t push it tight to the front or the screws won’t align. Just place in gently and the screws will align

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

First I pulled the unit away from the wall and unplugged it. There are a few screws that hold the top in place - access them from the top/front/underside of the main top - pull open the oven door to get to them. Once these were out, I gently slid the main top forward. There are tabs in the back that fit in slots just under the control panel - just work them free as you slide. I slid the top forward enough to get past a narrow aluminum plate/tab (part #26B) in the very front that runs the width of the top. Once it's free of the tabs in the back, and the front is free, there is enough play in the wires & elements to move the top to one side of the stove and access the heating elements underneath. The heating elements are attached to brackets; the brackets (part# 26) are attached to the main top. You can leave the elements & wires attached to the brackets - there is one screw per bracket that attaches it to the main top - just remove the bracket screws. It requires either a square screw driver or a 1/4 inch socket. Do one side, then the other NOTE WHICH HOLE THE SCREW GOES IN, as there are a few to choose from. After the brackets were free, the top comes off. I moved the back tabs (part #18) from the old top to the new - NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE TABS. I didn't, and had to flip them over, after 20 frustrating minutes. With the new tabs in, I replaced the heating element brackets, then slid the main top back to its original position. If the tabs are in the right position (see above) it'll slide right into place. I had to work the narrow metal plate in the front under the main top with my fingers when sliding it back on. I replaced the front screws underneath, plugged it back in, pushed into place, and it's working fine. About 40 minutes total, extra if you don't note the orientation of the tabs in back, or the location of the element bracket screws. The oversized heating element won't let you put it in incorrectly.

Needed just a screw driver, removed the top back cover and unplugged two wire sets. Four screws and the mother board was off. My only problem was the facial front ended up pulling off some of the almond color when I pulled it off, even after I used a heat gun to soften the glue. Besides that it was very easy to fix and the range works perfectly again.

check for power in to the module,when it had incoming power,order new module,jnstalled it and walah done.

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.

I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.

Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.