FEFL68GMB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Replaced the dual element switch and that fixed it up

pulled oven out, unplugged, unscrewed element attachment to the back of the oven (from the inside). element did not work. we tested the upper element and that did not work either. the burst of sparks, heat and flame from the shorting of the original element caused damage to the computer board. we called a local repair man to change the computer board, and then the unit worked, with our new element that we replaced!

My husband followed the video instructions and it was easy to fix.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

The light apparatus was loose behind the panel. Remove the remaining part of the lens. Install the new lens from the outside of the panel and hold it in position, protruding into the inside of the panel. Slide the light apparatus onto the lens from the inside, allowing the bracket to hold it in place - it will be spring loaded, which will hold it in place.

Needed just a screw driver, removed the top back cover and unplugged two wire sets. Four screws and the mother board was off. My only problem was the facial front ended up pulling off some of the almond color when I pulled it off, even after I used a heat gun to soften the glue. Besides that it was very easy to fix and the range works perfectly again.

First I pulled the unit away from the wall and unplugged it. There are a few screws that hold the top in place - access them from the top/front/underside of the main top - pull open the oven door to get to them. Once these were out, I gently slid the main top forward. There are tabs in the back that fit in slots just under the control panel - just work them free as you slide. I slid the top forward enough to get past a narrow aluminum plate/tab (part #26B) in the very front that runs the width of the top. Once it's free of the tabs in the back, and the front is free, there is enough play in the wires & elements to move the top to one side of the stove and access the heating elements underneath. The heating elements are attached to brackets; the brackets (part# 26) are attached to the main top. You can leave the elements & wires attached to the brackets - there is one screw per bracket that attaches it to the main top - just remove the bracket screws. It requires either a square screw driver or a 1/4 inch socket. Do one side, then the other NOTE WHICH HOLE THE SCREW GOES IN, as there are a few to choose from. After the brackets were free, the top comes off. I moved the back tabs (part #18) from the old top to the new - NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE TABS. I didn't, and had to flip them over, after 20 frustrating minutes. With the new tabs in, I replaced the heating element brackets, then slid the main top back to its original position. If the tabs are in the right position (see above) it'll slide right into place. I had to work the narrow metal plate in the front under the main top with my fingers when sliding it back on. I replaced the front screws underneath, plugged it back in, pushed into place, and it's working fine. About 40 minutes total, extra if you don't note the orientation of the tabs in back, or the location of the element bracket screws. The oversized heating element won't let you put it in incorrectly.

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

Took out 2 screws, removed panel.
When you put the panel in don’t push it tight to the front or the screws won’t align. Just place in gently and the screws will align

2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

When the part arrived, I open the box. Cut off my breaker to the range. Pulled back the stove and unscrewed the back. Located the probe, unscrewed the one screw that held it in. I then unclamped the white connectors, remove the old probe, replaced it with the new one reclamped the connectors. Screwed it back into the range. Replaced the back and screwed that back together. It was so easy I was very proud of my self. I cut the breaker back on and cooked a can of biscuits just to see if it really worked. And it did. My bread was not burned, it was cooked to perfection.