FEF336ECG Frigidaire Range - Instructions

First we turned off the electic, then we took the back off the stove and pulled the wire off the bad element then replace the new element. It was very easy to do.

With the draw glide, I simply had to slide it into position. To replace the clock, I had to remove the back panel and then replace the broken clock with the new one by simply turning a few screws and using a pair pliers to removing the color coded wires.

Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson

I had open back cover and remove the switch than replace new switch. Makesure cable conection.

There were only 2 screws that held the door handle & cap in place, removed screws & handle to get cap pieces off. Ordered new cap, - lost screws - cap delivered - no screws had to order screws, damn! They're expensive too !! Got screws, installed handle & cap, now wife is happy again!

Drank a beer, grabbed a screwdriver & tried to remove the two screws that held the element in place. The screws were old and when I turned them, they stripped instantly. This required another beer. Eventually I used pliers to grip the sides of the screws to remove and reinsrt them. When I finished the oven worked great, so I celebrated with another beer.

I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

The repair was very easy take the back off, pull the wires from the old and put on the new that's it. Carefully peel the old face plate off and stick on the new one your done out the cover back on and cook.

I followed the instructions I remembered from the video when I ordered the clock timer. Had no problem at all. I am enjoying my oven again.

Removed back panel made note of all connections, remove 4corner screws and connections and re-install in reverse order.

Removed 8 screws from back, took out timer and replaced. Simple. $112 fix versus replacing with a $600 oven. Good for another 5 years!

It took me more time to find the right tool then to remove and replace the element. If I can do it anybody can do it. Removed two (2) screws with a nutdriver. Detached the element replaced with new element and replaced screws. Easy job!

Unscrewed screws in back of oven holding element. Slipped old element off of wire. No need to cut wires has the kind of ends (spade ends I think they are called) that just is pushed on to element. Attached new element. slid wires back into wall of wire rescrewed to oven wall. Very easy just be sure wires don't get pulled back into back wall of oven. Don't know what you would do then.

I watched the video of the repair. It was very easy; removed 2 screws; disconnected 2 push-on tabs; removed the element; and then reversed the operation. Be sure to turn off the circuit breaker that powers the oven before you start the repair. Turn it back on when finished and test the oven.