GLEFS79DCB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Removed old fan and replaced with new fan. To replace fan, the over interior fan blade was removed, then the two slip on wires were removed from the old fan motor, then the three screws securing the old fan motor were removed. The process was reversed to install replacement fan

I unplugged the Stove/Oven electrical cord from the wall, then removed the oven door by unlocking the door brackets with a flat head screw driver then closing the door to the last position before it closes and removing the door from the stove (found instructions on YouTube - very easy, which is optional), then removed the oven racks. Removing the door made it a lot easier to access the broil element and element support bracket screws using a socket wrench. I removed the screws from the rear cover on the back of the stove with a socket wrench to access and disconnect the broil element wires with my hand (pliers if needed). I removed the old broil element and inserted and reconnected the new broil element wires, then re-installed the rear cover. I tightened the broil element in place then re-installed the element support bracket and screws, replaced the oven racks, re-installed the oven door and plugged the stove into the wall. This took about twenty minutes and the broil element is working fine.

I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.

If you do not intend to take apart the oven door to clean the interior glass, I would recommend you use a clamp to hold the handle and oven door tightly together while you replace the screw. There is a spacer between the back and front panels which could otherwise be shifted out of position. I used a screw extractor to remove the damaged screw and then installed the replacement. Wish all appliance repairs were this easy!

Easy as 1-2-3

Initially we realized there was a problem while cooking with the large eyes and we began hearing an electrical short behind the control switch. I unplugged the power from the oven/cooktop and removed the back panel where I could visually see soot on the switches where it was shorted. Careful while choosing your part from the diagram on Partselect.com. For the model FEF336ECJ, atleast for my oven, the eye switches were reversed and I ordered the small eye's switches! Luckily they have an outstanding customer support and immediately mailed out the new parts and a label to send the wrong parts back. Changing the parts out was very simple. Pull the oven out and UNPLUG IT from any electrical outlet. Remove the back panel. Double check from the label on the front of the control panel that you are working with the correct switch, and before removing the current switch, remove the wires one by one and place them on the new part to make sure you don't misplace these wires. Once the wires are connected to the new part, pull the plastic knob off of the old switch to reveal the screws on front of the panel. Place the new switch where the old one came from and fasten the screws back in place. Replace the knob, replace the back panel(for safety) and test the new switch before you push the oven back into place. If you can turn a screw driver, move the oven, and unplug the power, this easy do it yourself repair will save you possibly hundreds by not calling a repair/handyman who would absolutely love you to pay out the nose for such an easy task.

We removed the back of the stove, unscrewed switch from the stove face and unplugged the wires from the old switch. The new switch was universal so I had to follow the numbers by the prong on the old switch to determine which was the correct prong to plug the wires, plugged them in, screwed the switch back to the stove face and replaced the back Viola all fixed.

Pulled oven from counter space unplugged unit unscrewed 9 - 1/4" tech screws then one more 1/4" tech screw that holds the sensor.Inserted the new element cut the two wire because it was a different connection stripped the wires and did the same to the old element but used the old plug.Connected the plug,plugged the over back in slid the unit back and turned out on for a test.All is well,thank you!

watched the veido first then un pluged the stove then i took out 6 screws and 2 from the switch and reversed every thing

Easy to put in but i droped a screw to hold the element. had to pull another screw to fix it

Took back cover off 2 screws held the switch then moved wires one at a time from old switch to the new one put everything back plugged in stove everything worked

Checked the burner and no power to heat the burner. removed the old switch and put on the new one.

Pull out stove. Unplug power. Remove four screws on each corner and loosen one screw in the middle. Remove back panel. Locate and unplug sensor connector. Remove one screw from sensor plate. Turn the sensor 45 degrees and pull sensor out from the rear. Connector received had the incorrect plug and terminals so it was necessaary to splice the connector from the one removed to the one received. Cut and splice wires as necessary. Install sensor, install back panel, plug in electrical power, push stove back into position. I used a temperature gauge to check temperature after stove was in position. In my case the temperature had to be adjusted which is a keyboard function on this unit.

Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.