CFEF358EC1 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Husband made install in very short time. Nice to have them back in operation.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!

Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.

Replaced both springs. Follow instructions in owners manual on removing door. Spring assembly resides in door. Remove screws holding spring assembly in place, then the remaining screws holding the inside of door in place. Raising the side, slide out old spring then slide in the new one - do the same on the opposite side. Replace all the screws - starting with those that hold the spring assembly making sure the latches are straight. Put the door back on making sure to lock "spring locks" detailed in owners manual

I followed directions for replacement of the glass from the web. Replacement was simple and easy.

Found a YouTube video similar to the required repair. Took door off, disassembled the door, replaced the right hinge-spring assy, reassembled. Worked great. High quality replacement part from Part Select that was made in the USA.

I went to you-tube and found a video that told me how to remove and expose the hinge. That was all I needed. One stubborn screw was all the problem I had and it was replaced. Thank you for saving me lots of money!! It's working great and I would buy from Part Select again!

Removed oven door. Removed screws from bottom of door as well as handle screws. Remove inner panel to expose glass. Replaced glass panel and reverse steps. Very easy.

Figured out that light and door switch started the convection fan on when door is closed. Found the switch defective. Found exploded view online of switch in oven. Had to figure out that the range top needed to be removed to access the switch from inside the top part of oven. Unscrewed at least (6) screws to free up the range top. Squeezed the inside switch clips to allow switch to be pulled out from outside of oven. Disconnected electrical receptacle and plugged into new switch. Pushed in new switch til it snapped into place. Reinstalled range top.

Used a screw driver to loosen 2 screws and the pulled the tabs off the old element and installed the new element. I am probably the most "unhandy " guy in the world but this was a snap. I am as surprised as anyone.

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair

2 People--removed door, then removed and replaced springs followed by door a brief pictorial of the area even printed on the package would have simplified the project

with a schematic of the door, this was fairly easy. since we had to take it completely apart, we cleaned the glass as well and every little nook and cranny. Once we put it back together, the door looked like we just bought it. these days, with whats available online, scary jobs turn out to easy.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range