FEF376CJTB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Removed two screws that are attached to handle then removed four screws from bottom edge of oven door. I was then able to remove the outer door glass,this gave me access to the three inner glasses. After removing the retainer for the glass assembly,I was able to remove all three and replace the inner one.I reversed this proceedure to reassemble.

removed the screws holding the front part of the door and from there worked my way, untill the third glass.
It took a couple hours, my first time,. Overall easy,

I follow the video on your site

Unplugged the stove first !
Removed bake element ; (2 screws), looked OK,
measured with an Ohm meter, measured "open".
Also, removed rear cover (6-screws), wires not burnt. Ordered new element-rec'd next day! My wife installed it and replaced rear cover. Works great (oven!) and about $10 cheaper and quicker than from a local dealer!

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson

I had open back cover and remove the switch than replace new switch. Makesure cable conection.

First we turned off the electic, then we took the back off the stove and pulled the wire off the bad element then replace the new element. It was very easy to do.

First thing I did was turn off power to the range at the circuit breaker. The repair was generally easy with the exception that 1 screw holding the broiler element support was "welded" into the oven ceiling. I stripped the screw trying to get it out. Fortunately, I had a special tool that allows one to grip the outer edge of the screw while turning it --- and that's how I got it apart. Once the broiler element support was off, I removed 2 screws holding the broiler element itself to the oven wall and carefully pulled the broiler element out from the oven wall and detached the wire clips connecting the wires to the broiler element. I reattached the clips onto the new element and installed the new element back into the oven wall. I then reattached the broiler element support using a another screw (because I decimated the original one). I then turned the circuit breaker back on and turned the broiler on. Woila. My broiler works again! Special thanks to the people at this site who were very helpful in seeing to it I got the correct broiler element. The original ordered broiler element was delivered to the wrong address. The folks at this site sent me another one. To make a long story short, they saw to it I got the correct part. I highly recommend this site based on my experience with them.

Drank a beer, grabbed a screwdriver & tried to remove the two screws that held the element in place. The screws were old and when I turned them, they stripped instantly. This required another beer. Eventually I used pliers to grip the sides of the screws to remove and reinsrt them. When I finished the oven worked great, so I celebrated with another beer.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.

Unpluged unit then using a flat screwdriver pride out old switch,pull off wires replace on new switch & push new switch in place. Repluged unit reset clock. Done!

It took me more time to find the right tool then to remove and replace the element. If I can do it anybody can do it. Removed two (2) screws with a nutdriver. Detached the element replaced with new element and replaced screws. Easy job!

Removed rear panal, removed screws from of switch. Unplued wires and installed new switch and put back together. Very easy.