FGF379WESH Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Disconnected power cord to range
Removed the cover over the flame guard
Removed the Flame guard
Pulled out broiler drawer
Unscrewed the cover and disconnected the white plastic connector to the ignitor wires
Un crewed the two small screws to the ignitor and removed the old ignitor
Cut the two wires from the old ignitor
Connected the new ignitor to the wires on the white connector
Installed the new ignitor
Reassembled parts dsassembled
Plugged in power cord

Works

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

1- put in new thermostat 2- put in new gas valve 3- put in oven igniter ....3rd time a charm. Now I have all new oven parts! My husband installed and said it was pretty easy, have to take the oven door off and inside bottom out.

I followed Ryan's instructions and had no problem following them. HOWEVER, I ENCOUNTERED A MAJOR PROBLEM when I put it all back together: the control buttons wouldn't work. I took it apart again and examined the old one, which had plastic pins in the holes which the buttons were supposed to push. The new part didn't have the pins. I wanted to remove the pins from the old part and put them in the new one. This was difficult, and I broke the first one when I removed it. (I ended up super-gluing it together successfully.) In order to remove the other pins, I pried and pinched with needle-nose pliers to remove the plastic collar around the pin, then the pin came out easily and could be inserted in the new part, pushing hard until it clicked in place. Then when I put everything together it worked fine.

Replaced the ingintion module, still did not work, replaced the burner complete with new ingiter , it now works but another one quit . the front right one has 5 ohms resistance ,replaced with new one with 0 ohms, the back left has 2 ohms resistance and now it does not work , will need to replace that burner allso. too bad you can't buy just the spark module for the burner.

Having already removed the old igniter , replaced it with new.

Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .

Remove oven racks and bottom oven panel cover.Removed old igniter.one screw was stripped so that slowed me down quite a bit! Used a small vise grip tool to remove screw! installed new ignighter,cut existing wires; spliced in new wires( be sure to unplug appliance) tested ok. Reassembled.

Really easy to do, did not have to bring stove out from the wall! Turn power off to the stove. Remove the lower drawer. Remove the oven rakes. With a slotted screwdriver remove two screws in back of bottom oven cover, use 1/4 inch socket to remove two screws in front. Remove bottom oven cover. You can then see the part to be removed which has two wires going into it, the unit looks identical to the new part which heats up and lights the gas grill for the oven. I cut the two wires from the old part, remember which is the upper and lower; remove two screws holding onto part. Wire new part remembering top and bottom. Push extra wire down into bottom drawer and then mount new part with two screws. Turn power back on and try oven. Lite right away for me so I knew I had replaced the bad part. Reassemble and Enjoy!!

use #1 square drive: remove screws from back, remove 2 top screws from top, remove 4 or 5 screws from front cover and remove front cover. remove 4 screws from old timer clock, tranfer wires. Now, I don't know why they don't include the push pins on the new part, but you have to disassemble the old clock to extract the old push pins that activate the micro switches (putty knife helped). These are one way pins so don't break them. I pulled the rubber covers off the glass front and started reassembly. I put the rubber covers on last and it was done. If I had not cleaned the stove and had noticed the push pins on the first attempt I would of been done in 30 minutes.

Your website is great...easy and it literally took me no mote than 5 minutes to find what I needed and order...and received it VERY quickly. Must say I was dreading going to some parts house that we have in our town in bad area, and searching on dusty shelves for what I needed...am so glad I found you!!

first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arrived early than anticipated.

I unplugged the stove then pulled the disconnected the wires that controled the igniter. I took the two screws off that held the igniter to the pilot port. I hand to cut the wires on the new igniter to some-what match the lenght of the broken igniter. Then I cut the connectors from the old part and used the fire resistant wire nutes that where included with the new igniter and connected it all. Put all the screws in tight, double checked every thing. Finally I plugged it in and it was working.

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place.I then pulled the element out and cut the wires.I used wire nuts to put the new wirers on and put it back in place with the two screws.I tried it and it worked perfect.

Open the door and slide in the new rack.