FED367ABD Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Turned off electricity to the stove top opened up the aluminum cover under the stove top with the screwdriver Took off the wires one at a time with the pliers as they were on tight and replaced them on the new part Replaced the aluminum cover Turned on electricity and voila it worked fine no sparking

1. Loosened 2 sensor mounting screws and removed them. 2. Tripped range circuit breaker to off. 3. Pulled out the range but left gas connected. 4. Loosened the 4 screws on RH side of the top back panel and carefully pried that side of the panel open. 5. Using fingers, threaded the sensor's wiring harness through insulation and into the oven. 6. Unplugged old probe. 7. plugged in new probe. 8. tugged wiring harness back through insulation behind the oven. 9. Using 2 screws removed in 1 above, mounted new sensor. 10. Repositioned top back panel and fastened it in place. 11. Shoved range back in. 12. Tripped range circuit breaker to on. 13. Reset clock. 14. Set oven to 450 for test tun. 15.

replaced it

Bottom oven quit heating about 6 mos. ago and now top oven quit. Broiler worked fine on both. Bought 1 replacement element to try. Did not work on either oven. Found online where someone had found a bad solder joint on a relay board so I pulled the oven and removed the covers. (WITH POWER OFF. I made a diagram of the wire connections to the board and removed it. I FOUND a cold solder joint on the L2 connection of the top oven board. I found the exact same cold solder joint on the bottom oven board also. After resoldering the connections and touching up any suspect joints I replaced the boards. They BOTH WORKED fine!
Anyone that can't solder can take the boards to a local radio/TV repair shop and probably get the techincian to resolder it for a minimum fee. It is certainly worth the attempt.

We pulled the stove out from its slot in our island. We unplugged it and unhooked the gas line so we could get behind it easily. We then took off the back (using screwdriver) to get to the connectors for the element. We unhooked the connectors from the old element. Then we took off the plate inside the back of the oven (using screwdriver)and gently pulled the old element out. We seated the new element in the oven and then hooked it up in the back and put it all back together again. It worked perfectly! The hardest part was cleaning the dirty floor under where the oven had been for 7 years!

It's kind of embarrassing!
As the breaker was being thrown to turn the current off, I discovered that the breaker box was burn up at the breakers.
Short story but I got'er done! The problem now is there is something still wrong with teh oven!
I think I see a new one in the future!
Thank you very much for the very prompt delivery.
My purchase has been without a flaw.
I have already sent the part back for a refund.
It cost me something like $13 for this experience for freight.
I will remember you with my next need.

Just "locked" the hinges, pulled the door off. Removed the broken glass for the door. Switched the handle from the old door to the new one. thPut it back on e hinges.....viola!! new oven door glass!

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

Easy as 1-2-3

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

Removed 2 screws holding old temperature sensor inside the oven and gently pulled out the wire till the connector came through the hole. Disconnected old probe and attached new one. Fished the wire back in the hole and replaced the two screws. Then followed the operating instructions for calibrating the oven. Ended up setting it +5 degrees. So far, works great.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.