FGF365DQC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

replaced it

I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

took drawer out, removed tin covers, found igniter and removed,snipped off parts to put on new igniter ,wirenutted old to new put back together ,we had ignition! all in all pretty easy job! detailed instructions that came with new part were easy to follow and precice

Remove the oven drip pan & burner baffle. unscrew & cut leads to remove old igniter. Splice old leads to new using furnished wire nuts and remount. Job would have been easier with oven door removed, but didnt want to create a new project.

Followed service sheet. Measured 2.6 amps draw at igniter wire which should have been 3.2 amps. Replaced igniter and problem resolved.

My husband was able to easily remove the old part, and replace with the new ignitor. The wires were long, so he took the extra precaution of tying them away from the flame. It took longer to take everything out and put it back together than the actual repair..

pulled bottom door out as far as you can. lift out broiler tray and the tray under that. to get the door completely out. on each side of the rail holding the door from come out push in the tap on each side and pull the door all the way out and off. reach inside and take out two nuts holding the old igniter and cut the two wires and remove it
stripe about 1/4 in of the wire. attache the wire from the new igniter. hold them two and use the white cap and twist it on the two wires and do the same to the other two wires. Bolt the igniter back on with the two bolts and your done. When you turn on the oven the igniter will click and turn on. it will be alot brighter then the old one and the oven will start pretty fast.

I replaced both gas valve and igniter. I removed oven door and bottom of oven for easy access to both. The door slid off easy and the bottom was held by two thumb screws. I removed the gas flare for easy access to igniter & valve. I then removed the igniter & valve using nutdriver, phillips screwdriver and adj wrench. I then followed simple instructions supplied for wire connect on igniter and valve. It was a very easy job for a 25 yr old stove. I made the mistake of ordering only the valve and ordered the igniter later. Having both new parts causes the oven to light in about 30 seconds. Im glad I found partselect online. Nh, westerville, oh

followed online instructions

Let me begin to say your service was great. I received the unit the next day. Also your price was good.
The whole job took me an hour. I would have done it sooner but I didnt a square head driver bit to remove the igniter from the burner assembly. I removed the whole assembly and with a pliers slowly unscrewed the mounting screws. After that I disconnected the igniter per your instructions,spliced the remaining wires reconnected the gas and electric and I was good to go.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

the igniter is real easy to put in