GLGF388AQC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I reattached the new piece. It was the easiest thing ever and i'm a woman!

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires....install new element and woalla.........save thangsguivingday thanks to part select .com..........

first thing was to remove the crushed guide with pliers and a twist it was out. to install the new one islipped one side into the slot and took pliers and applied pressure on the lower glide into the slot; it was done presto. works like new. thanks,
Fred . it was so reasonable i got a spare.

first I emptied the contents of the drawer,then pulled drawer open to it's fullest, then lifted drawer so as to tilt slightly, then removed drawer by continuing to pull straight out. then I removed the glide from its protective packaging and inserted it in the same spot as the broken glide was at one time

Simple repair ,unplug unit,cut the 2 wires close to heating element,remove elements 2 screws w/1/4 inch nut driver. Cut and strip 2 wires back about 1/2 inch,be sure to cut wires close to element,wirenut both wires together. Reinstalled element,plug unit back in. Done . . . 12 Minutes,ready to bake a cake. .

First turn the thermostat off-cut the wires leading to the ignitor, close to the ignitor side-Remove the two 1/4" monting bracket screws and remove the ignitor install the new ignitor using the same 1/4" screws and reconnect the wires leading into the ignitor, note the polarity is not imp[ortant--use the heat temp-wire nuts provided--close the door and call for heat the gas valve is working fine now....

Open the door and slide in the new rack.

AS YOU DESCRIBED IN YOUR YOU-TUBE VIDEO, THE OVEN IGNITER WOULD GLOW BUT THE OVEN WOULD NOT LIGHT. YOU EXPLAINED THAT THE PROBLEM COULD STILL BE THE IGNITER AND SO I ORDERED A NEW IGNITER AND THEN WATCHED YOUR VIDEO ON HOW TO ACCESS AND REPLACE THE NEW IGNITER AND THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM. I ONLY HAD TO CUT THE OLD WIRES ON THE OLD IGNITER AND MATCH WIRES WITH THE NEW IGNITER USING THE CERAMIC WIRE NUTS SUPPLIED, AND I WAS BACK COOKING AGIN. THANKS.

Removed oven door. (two screws)
Removed racks.
Removed oven floor. (two finger screws)
Removed diverter (V) tray. (one nut)
Removed small panel @ left lower back of oven
(1 screw) to access elect. power disconnect.
Disconnected power.
Removed element (two square drive screws)
Snipped and stripped old wires, connected new
with ceramic wire nuts supplied.
Installed new element, reversed proceedure.
Oven lights in 10 seconds. Wife happy!
Probably 40 minutes, could do it again in15-20
once you know what tools to lay out.

Turned the gas and the electricity off to the gas range. Took the two large screws out in the back of the range holding on the first pan. Have to look for them. Took off the single nut holding on the second pan. Used nut drive #10 to take off nuts. Be careful you do not lose them. Took off inoperative unit. Cut wires to unit. Stripped wires which connect to range. Put new unit on and tightened nuts with nutdriver. Spliced wires together and put on wire nuts securely. Taped them to the wires. Put the second pan back, then the first pan. Turned on gas and electricity to test.
Worked fine. Found that the old unit was cracked and had a piece missing. Must use flashlight. Be safe.

After diagnosing the problem, I entered the Tappan Model #, found the part needed, and ordered from Part Select. On receipt (2 day delivery), I followed the instructions enclosed with the ignitor, and within 30 minutes, had everything up and running. Thanks PART SELECT!

I removed the oven floor and subfloor. I detached the old ignighter leaving the wires still attached. I then attached the new ignighter and fed each of the two new wires down through the bottom of the oven floor following the same path of the old wires which were still attached. I attached the new wires one at a time to make sure I connected them to the right place. Then, I pulled out the old igniter. I then attached the oven floors and turned the oven on which now works. The tough part is pulling the oven out from the wall to disconnect the power and turn off the gas. I did not remove the oven door.

Removed the broiler compartment door by depressing the slide stops inward and pulling the door off. Turned off the breaker to the oven. Used a nut driver to remove the old ignitor ( 2 screws ). Cut the wires off the old ignitor close to the porclin. Measured the new ignitor wires to match up with the old ignitor wires and cut them. Stripped 3/8 " off ends of newely cut wires of the ignitor and used the supplied wire nuts to secure them together. Replaced the new ignitor with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven and a cooking I went.

Removed the drawer. Inserted the new glide tab into a hole in the side. Inserted the drawer slides in the the glide. Closed drawer--done! Works fine. Probably only 5-10 minutes.

First unplugged the oven from the wall and then I removed the bottom floor of the oven by removing the two screws at the back. Then I removed the heat shield over the burner by remove the two screws at the front of the oven and removed the nut in the middle of the heat shield that was hold the shield to the burner. I removed the two screws on the flat oven igniter and cut the two wires on the igniter and pulled the two wires through the open in the bottom oven from the drawer opening. Mounted the new igniter and feed the two wire from the igniter through the open in the bottom of the oven, Stripped the two wires that I cut from the oven, twisted the new wires to the old, and put the wire nuts on. Last I put everything back together and baked dinner. Took ten about minutes and saved a thousand dollars because I was going to buy a new oven. Thanks, Partselect.