FEFL79DCG Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Took the back off and replaced the switch for that burner. Got alittle nervous because the switch did not look the same and the connectors were labeled differently, but it worked. Lost the red light button some how during the repair so when I turned the stove on sparks came out the back because the light connector was loose so I did have to order another one of those.

First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was able to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.

Pull out stove. Unplug power. Remove four screws on each corner and loosen one screw in the middle. Remove back panel. Locate and unplug sensor connector. Remove one screw from sensor plate. Turn the sensor 45 degrees and pull sensor out from the rear. Connector received had the incorrect plug and terminals so it was necessaary to splice the connector from the one removed to the one received. Cut and splice wires as necessary. Install sensor, install back panel, plug in electrical power, push stove back into position. I used a temperature gauge to check temperature after stove was in position. In my case the temperature had to be adjusted which is a keyboard function on this unit.

Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.

Replaced the control I got from you , even though it was a little different the lugs matched up and works great.

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.

removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range

I had order a replacement baking element to start, without trouble shooting the problem. When I had replaced the new bake element, set the oven to bake @ 350*F & watch for the baking element to heat up,it did not heat up. I waited for the oven to cool down,pulled the unit out & unpluged it from the receptacle.I removed the back cover,then I used my volt/ohm meter to check for contunity from the switch to both side of the element. Measured the ohms of the 3 bake elements,all good. Verfied that diodes were ok & there was no open resistors on the circuit board.No proble found. Put the back cover on, pluged the unit into the electrical outlet, pushed the unit back in placed, set the oven to bake @ 350*F, problem solved. My wife have bake several cakes & I cooked Sunday dinner using the oven. The real problem may have been an open circuit between the bottom bake elament & the switch. The repair was completed on 12/02/2012.

A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to it.

Moved the stove. Used the template to position the bracket. Put the supplied screws to attach bracket to the floor. Slid stove back into place. DONE!

Removed back, identified faulty parts and next aired replacements. Easy job with screw gun and needle nose.

The infinite switch arrived promptly and while not a perfect match fit the range fine. It took me a few extra minutes to figure out the wiring configuration, but it was fairly easy. I was very pleased with Parts Select's service.

I watched you vedio and done just as the vedio told me how to change the switch. When I got the switch on pluged it in turned it on and every thing work great. thank you very much.