PLEF489ACC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

After trying to unscrew a plate on the side, I found that would NOT work at all, the side panel of the stove was behind it. I found a tab that cut-out on 3 sides just above the location of the recepticle, and simply bent that tab out, pulled out the old recepticle, slid in the new recipticle, and put in the screws and then bent back the tab. It was sooo easy once I found that. I repeated in on the other side.

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

Removed both sides, removed ceramic glass surface, disconnected surface wiring.
Replaced Small oven Latch, replaced both sides and storage drawer.
reconnected wiring, replaced control panel end covers

Easy as 1-2-3

First. shut off the power!!! Remove the two screws holding the coil. Next- slightly pull remaining wire to access the plugs. Unplug the wires, remove old coil, replace and plug in the new... Replace two screws.... Turn power on and....... Start cooking! EASY!

Removed 2 screws holding old temperature sensor inside the oven and gently pulled out the wire till the connector came through the hole. Disconnected old probe and attached new one. Fished the wire back in the hole and replaced the two screws. Then followed the operating instructions for calibrating the oven. Ended up setting it +5 degrees. So far, works great.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

Gasket has pins that line up with tiny holes around the perimeter of door. Just pull the old gasket off, and snap new one ( with pins) in . Used the butter knife to push ends of gasket in hole at bottom of door. Took about 2 minutes to complete and looks AWESOME! simple. simple, simple! This company ships immediately and the product is described properly. I would buy from this company again!

Figured out that light and door switch started the convection fan on when door is closed. Found the switch defective. Found exploded view online of switch in oven. Had to figure out that the range top needed to be removed to access the switch from inside the top part of oven. Unscrewed at least (6) screws to free up the range top. Squeezed the inside switch clips to allow switch to be pulled out from outside of oven. Disconnected electrical receptacle and plugged into new switch. Pushed in new switch til it snapped into place. Reinstalled range top.

After removing pots / pans in cabinet below cook top and turning off the power, I was able to remove the panel held by 2 screws. Pulling the old light out was just a little difficult as it came in pieces. New one popped right in, hooked up terminals, replaced the panel and that was it !!

Took screws loose, unplugged old one plugged in new one put screws back

Turn off braker,lift cooktop from counter and remove acces panel unscrew switch from cooktop and replace one wirer at the time than resrew everything together.

Moved the stove away from the wall, unhooked the electric cord and the gas pipe. In the oven, undid the two screws holding the probe. Removed two screws and removed the electrical cover panel from the stove back, disconnected the quick connect to the probe and pulled the probe from the oven. Reversding the proceedures, put the new probe into the oven, hooked up the quick connect and replaced the electrical panel cover. From the front, reinstalled the probe with the two screws, reconnected the gas and the power cord and put the stove back into position. It works just fine now!

Used a screw driver to loosen 2 screws and the pulled the tabs off the old element and installed the new element. I am probably the most "unhandy " guy in the world but this was a snap. I am as surprised as anyone.