GLED388DBB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

Used a screw driver to loosen 2 screws and the pulled the tabs off the old element and installed the new element. I am probably the most "unhandy " guy in the world but this was a snap. I am as surprised as anyone.

Turned off electric at the main box. Removed glass top. Used a razor knife to pry the connections loose so that the new connections could be slid in. Problem was that the element ordered looked entirely different then the original one. Even the hookup was different. But once the connections were made, the ceramic top placed on top, and the electric restored everything seemed okay. The warmer works and when it heats up the warning light turns on. When the warmer cools the warning light goes off as it should.

First. shut off the power!!! Remove the two screws holding the coil. Next- slightly pull remaining wire to access the plugs. Unplug the wires, remove old coil, replace and plug in the new... Replace two screws.... Turn power on and....... Start cooking! EASY!

Took a screwdriver and removed screws attaching the element to the back of oven. Disconnectec the wires from the old bake element. Replaced the new reversing the process. Very easy.

After removing pots / pans in cabinet below cook top and turning off the power, I was able to remove the panel held by 2 screws. Pulling the old light out was just a little difficult as it came in pieces. New one popped right in, hooked up terminals, replaced the panel and that was it !!

Trun off power, remove other knobs gain access to panel remove rubber connectors, which gave me access to switch. Study connections install new switch put panel back together,turn power back on run a series of test, all went well.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!

Took screws loose, unplugged old one plugged in new one put screws back

Gasket has pins that line up with tiny holes around the perimeter of door. Just pull the old gasket off, and snap new one ( with pins) in . Used the butter knife to push ends of gasket in hole at bottom of door. Took about 2 minutes to complete and looks AWESOME! simple. simple, simple! This company ships immediately and the product is described properly. I would buy from this company again!

Removed 2 screws holding old temperature sensor inside the oven and gently pulled out the wire till the connector came through the hole. Disconnected old probe and attached new one. Fished the wire back in the hole and replaced the two screws. Then followed the operating instructions for calibrating the oven. Ended up setting it +5 degrees. So far, works great.

Turned off electrical breaker (double). Removed the switch handle, removed the plastic rings (special wrench) under the handles. Removed three screws up under the front of control panel. Removed six screws holding the infinite switches. Removed defective switch. Different from the new switch. Wiring locations were different on the old sw. The reason for the vom use. All is well.

In order to service the switches on this model, remove all four knobs for the switches. This will expose the plastic nuts which hold the fascia panel secure. Remove those nuts and the fascia panel. Next use a phillips screwdriver to unsecure the steel panel which secures all four burner switches. Remove the faulty switch, taking note of each color lead and terminal designation. Replace in reverse order.

The repair went relatively easy. I even cleaned all the layers of parts when they were removed from the glass panel. I have to thank the excellent customer service and super fast delivery. Overall a quite easy task and $$ saving as well!