FGF335CGSK Frigidaire Range - Instructions

moved the stove forward and removed old cord by uncruing two small screw and on ploged the all and replaced with the new one.

I used the tutorial as a guide, and went ahead with the repair. Because of the older model I was working on there were many more screws to remove, not a problem the repair was simple.

AS YOU DESCRIBED IN YOUR YOU-TUBE VIDEO, THE OVEN IGNITER WOULD GLOW BUT THE OVEN WOULD NOT LIGHT. YOU EXPLAINED THAT THE PROBLEM COULD STILL BE THE IGNITER AND SO I ORDERED A NEW IGNITER AND THEN WATCHED YOUR VIDEO ON HOW TO ACCESS AND REPLACE THE NEW IGNITER AND THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM. I ONLY HAD TO CUT THE OLD WIRES ON THE OLD IGNITER AND MATCH WIRES WITH THE NEW IGNITER USING THE CERAMIC WIRE NUTS SUPPLIED, AND I WAS BACK COOKING AGIN. THANKS.

Thank you, Thank you and thank you!!! I couldn't be happier and I save over $200 in repair. My repair was very easy after watching the video. I cut off the wire and ensure that the new one are attached into place. Placed all parts back and boom, the oven starts working a new.

First thing is I looked for videos on how to replace oven igniter to get an idea. Unplug AC cord and turn off gas valve.On my model I was not able to figure out how to remove oven door. You can still work around it without removing. Inside the oven, remove bottom cover. Remove 2 screws located in rear corners. After removing oven bottom cover, next is a burner cover. Remove 2 screws located toward front of oven using a nutdriver or socket. After removing burner cover , you will find oven igniter. Now remove bottom drawer. This is why its a bit difficult for others. Igniter has 2 leads. Laying down on the floor and reaching in to follow-identify where the 2 leads go to. Using same nutdriver or socket remove 2 screws that hold up the igniter. I cut the leads from the base of the old igniter so you will have some slack to work on when you reconnect the wires underneath. Install new igniter, run leads same way.Strip back about 3/8 in. wire, twist leads to proper wires and twist on ceramic wire cap that is provided. Make sure no bare wires are exposed! Now you can test.

After diagnosing the problem, I entered the Tappan Model #, found the part needed, and ordered from Part Select. On receipt (2 day delivery), I followed the instructions enclosed with the ignitor, and within 30 minutes, had everything up and running. Thanks PART SELECT!

first i removed the bottom of the oven [inside the oven] ,the part was right there,i removed 2 screws and unpluged the wires,then i cut the wire ends off the old part and used the wirenuts that came with the new one to hook them to the new part,then put it back in place,put the screws back in put the bottom back in and was done

Removed oven door. (two screws)
Removed racks.
Removed oven floor. (two finger screws)
Removed diverter (V) tray. (one nut)
Removed small panel @ left lower back of oven
(1 screw) to access elect. power disconnect.
Disconnected power.
Removed element (two square drive screws)
Snipped and stripped old wires, connected new
with ceramic wire nuts supplied.
Installed new element, reversed proceedure.
Oven lights in 10 seconds. Wife happy!
Probably 40 minutes, could do it again in15-20
once you know what tools to lay out.

I had no experience working on the stove before so it was all new to me. Removed the top cover. Removed the igniters and the burner connections which allowed access to the splash pan. Removed the splash pan and replaced the two broken tubes. Job would have been faster had I known how to access the front burner controls. As a result, we have a fully functioning Tappan range in our kitchen and the range is much better than anything commercially available. They don't make em like that anymore.

had to remove burner bolts holding igniter were stripped cut two wires replaced igniter using two self tapping screws put wires together using wirenuts Honey making cookies right now thanks already told friends about you

All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.

Followed your video and it was not hard at all

Turned the gas and the electricity off to the gas range. Took the two large screws out in the back of the range holding on the first pan. Have to look for them. Took off the single nut holding on the second pan. Used nut drive #10 to take off nuts. Be careful you do not lose them. Took off inoperative unit. Cut wires to unit. Stripped wires which connect to range. Put new unit on and tightened nuts with nutdriver. Spliced wires together and put on wire nuts securely. Taped them to the wires. Put the second pan back, then the first pan. Turned on gas and electricity to test.
Worked fine. Found that the old unit was cracked and had a piece missing. Must use flashlight. Be safe.

It was extremely easy, I took the two screws out by the hinges and then slid the door up off the hinges. After that I removed all the outer screws, a total of 8, and took the panel off. I then had to remove maybe 6 to 8 more screws in order to get to where the inside glass panel was. I then replaced the glass and put the door back together. It was such an easy job, that if anything else breaks rather than assuming I need to replace it Im gonna look on here to see if it can be repaired.

I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.