FEF389WJCC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

Remove old element by removing two screws on back wall of oven, pull attached wires out about 6" and disconnect. Reverse to install, very easy. Of course the oven door makes it harder to get at things, but it all worked out. Partselect was the only place I could find the element since the stove is 18 years old. I love keeping appliances going as long as possible.

The repair was straight forward and the video was a big help. I removed the oven racks and then used a 1/4" socket with a nut driver to unscrew the bolts at the back. Since this is a really old oven, the connecting wires were a bit difficult to remove from the bake element connectors. They seems kind of stuck, so I took a small, thin screw driver and pried up one of the metal clamps of the connecting wire just enough to let me budge the connector to detach the bake element. Had to do that for both sides. Then I just put the new bake element in, attached the wire connectors, made sure the wires and the ends of the bake element were all the way back in their holes, screwed the screws back in, and then put the racks back in. It was really easy, except for the bit of a challenge getting the wire connectors detached from the old bake element connectors. Works now without catching fire. :-D

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

Pulled out the stove, removed the screws that held on the back panel, took out the 2 screws that held in the element and disconnected the wires and put the new one in. I put the screw back in and was finished!

From learning the hard way on a previous repair, I opened the circuit breaker for the oven at the circuit box (arc welders use 220 volts also). Then using a nut driver, I removed the two retaining screws and pulled the bake element from the oven (about 3"). Then I removed the spade connectors on both ends of the element and reconnected them to the new element. Then I gently pushed the element back into the rear wall of the oven and replaced the retaining screws. This procedure is extreamly easy and very straight forward, anyone could accomplish this task.

order pcs fit perfect.

I removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out, and one of the leads came off and dropped into the oven. I had to take the back of the stove off and feed the lead back through the hole into the oven. If I had been careful to keep the leads from dropping out of the hole, the whole repair would have taken only a few minutes. But even so, it was quite easy.

REMEMBER TO UNPLUG YOUR APPLIANCE FIRST!

shut off power to stove. Opened the oven door, removed the racks. removed 2 screws holding the element in place. gently pulled element out to expose connections. removed connections. discard old element. reattach connections to new element and reinstall. very simple.

i first replaced element after old smoked & quit. replaced switch but i noticed when i started to replace the wires one at a time something didn't seem right. after checking the #s on the old one, they didn't match up with the new one.luckily i had the stove diagram from a packet on the back of the stove. i traced each wire according to the diagram and everything worked out fine. i'm just glad i didn't replace each wire to wire.the #'s were on the switch where each wire went which was different than the org. even though they looked the same.

The old element burnt a hole in itself and just glowed in an area about the size of a quarter. I unplugged the oven, removed the two screws that held the element and removed it. I plugged the oven back in so we could use the top burners. When I went to install the new element I did not unplug the oven as the controls were off. I did not know the element was hot from the outlet (by design) so when I tried to attach the new element sparks flew and it welded itself to the wire so I jerked it looose. I then unplugged the oven, replaced a blown fuse, and installed the element.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

I first turned the power supply off to my oven. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the ends. After that I connected the new element to the wires on my oven and secured the element with the two screws and turned the power back on. I pushed the oven-on button and now I'm back in business.

Slide out the old; slide in the new!

Very important first step: Turn off the circuit breaker for the range or disconnect the power cord.
I removed the oven door to make it easier to access the back of the oven; remove two screws and the door lifts off of the brackets. Removed a screw from the top of the oven that secures one end of a wire that supports the broil element. Removed two screws that secure the broil element plate to the back of the oven. Pulled the element forward exposing the end terminals and wires. The wires are connected to the element by spade connectors. Used long nosed pliers to remove the connectors from the element. Pushed the connectors on to the new element and stuffed the ends of the element and wires back through the opening and the insulation. Reinstalled the two screws holding the element in place and the screw holding the wire in place across the top of the oven. Reinstalled the door. Took less than 30 minutes.