GLES388CSB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Took screws loose, unplugged old one plugged in new one put screws back

Took a screwdriver and removed screws attaching the element to the back of oven. Disconnectec the wires from the old bake element. Replaced the new reversing the process. Very easy.

First. shut off the power!!! Remove the two screws holding the coil. Next- slightly pull remaining wire to access the plugs. Unplug the wires, remove old coil, replace and plug in the new... Replace two screws.... Turn power on and....... Start cooking! EASY!

unscrewed old and screwed in new

Replaced the switch...removed old switch and transferred the wires one at a time to the new switch. Seems to working fine..

Used a screw driver to loosen 2 screws and the pulled the tabs off the old element and installed the new element. I am probably the most "unhandy " guy in the world but this was a snap. I am as surprised as anyone.

I unplugged the stove. Then I lifted up the top of the stove to expose the burners. I unscrewed the necessary screws and plugs that attached the old burner to the stove. Then I simply put the new one back in it's place. The stove was one of those flat burner stoves, and I was a little concerned that I would be able to do it. The repair man wanted to charge me $150.00 for labor.

Turned off electric at the main box. Removed glass top. Used a razor knife to pry the connections loose so that the new connections could be slid in. Problem was that the element ordered looked entirely different then the original one. Even the hookup was different. But once the connections were made, the ceramic top placed on top, and the electric restored everything seemed okay. The warmer works and when it heats up the warning light turns on. When the warmer cools the warning light goes off as it should.

simple, removed a few screw's, unplugged old burner, plugged in the new one. that was basically it. easy!

Square drive screws used throughout the oven since its manufactured in Canada. Shut power down to the range. Element fastener plate removed and 2 electrical terminals loosened. Used a pair of hemostats to hold on to the wires so as not to lose them to the interior back of the oven which was loaded with insulation. Connected the 2 wires to the new element, screwed the element fastening plate with element back to the back of the oven wall. Turned power back on and voila, I was back in business.

Started with three screws on outer edge of door, which separated inner and outer door parts exposing the first set of screws on first piece of glass. There are four panes including inner and outer with two between. Keep track of the screws, be careful removing and replacing glass panes (i put mat down to rest glass on)and with nothing more than a screwdriver and windex to remove fingerprints etc from replaced glass, it was a breeze. Good luck! - FK, Bahamas

The repair went relatively easy. I even cleaned all the layers of parts when they were removed from the glass panel. I have to thank the excellent customer service and super fast delivery. Overall a quite easy task and $$ saving as well!

1. Moved stove from against the wall. 2. Unplugged the power supply. 3. Removed the electrical pannel cover. 4. Disconnected the quick connect probe plug. 5. Opened the oven and removed the probe. 6. Installed the new probe. 7. Connected the quick connect plug. 8. Reattached the electrical panel cover. 9. Plugged in the electrical supply. 10. Moved the stove back into its original position. ****Note**** THIS IS THE SECOND TIME I REPLACED THE PROBE. THE FIRST REPLACEMENT LASTED ONLY 5 MONTHS!!!!

Moved the stove away from the wall, unhooked the electric cord and the gas pipe. In the oven, undid the two screws holding the probe. Removed two screws and removed the electrical cover panel from the stove back, disconnected the quick connect to the probe and pulled the probe from the oven. Reversding the proceedures, put the new probe into the oven, hooked up the quick connect and replaced the electrical panel cover. From the front, reinstalled the probe with the two screws, reconnected the gas and the power cord and put the stove back into position. It works just fine now!

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.