GLGF376DCF Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Through an extensive web search of parts suppliers, I discovered a top burner knob in production that had the same shaft measurements as the original discontinued model. Once the ordered replacements arrived, it was a simple matter of removal and replacement.

The part did not have the proper cover, it was plain. I had to remove the electric board from the old housing and the new housing and install the the new board in the old housing. Other than that it would have been a 15 minute job. I had to be very careful not to damage the old plastic housing and I was tenitive, if I broke it I would have had problems. The new part should either come with the front ID cover or it should be recommended to buy. (It looks as though it is a plastic glue on cover, but would be ruined if I tried to remove the cover from the old housing) No problems other that mentioned.

replaced it

Received part very next day and put new knob on. Matches perfectly.

remove back panel took out old part splice wire replaced

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

Took 6 screws out holding the top on from the sides. Lifted the top front, popped out the spark module, Took 6wires off & reversed the processed to install the new one. I was really amazed when I ordered it Wednesday and it arrived on Friday. Believe me I bookmarked this site.

Easy as 1-2-3

removded 2 screws at rear of panel, moved panel toward rear of oven, lifted up and out. Slid in new panel in front groove then lowered onto oven floor and secured it with the 2 screws at rear of oven.

Pulled oven from counter space unplugged unit unscrewed 9 - 1/4" tech screws then one more 1/4" tech screw that holds the sensor.Inserted the new element cut the two wire because it was a different connection stripped the wires and did the same to the old element but used the old plug.Connected the plug,plugged the over back in slid the unit back and turned out on for a test.All is well,thank you!

open door,throw the door latches at the hinges and remove door. Take the out of the outer panel so you can separate the glasses. remove clip that hold the outer glass in place. I ordered a replacement glass as I never thought that it would come clean it looked so bad, but it cleaned up like new so I now have a spare glass for my oven door. Just reverse the way you take it apart to put it back together.

Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair

Pulled out range, unplugged power used nut driver to remove back and removed oven probe. Had to change end and reinstalled in reverse order.

This is a slide in oven fully contained not in a wall, or wood enclosure. I slid the unit out away from the wall unplugged the power cord, used the nut driver to remove a dozen screws, not all of them, you dont need to pull the top back plate off just unscrew the bottom 3-4 screws on the top plate to release the lower back cover plate and you see the probe wire and the insertion point/hole. I actually did not even need to pull the full back plate off but it makes the handling of all the tools and stripping easier. I wish they had just left the plug off of the new probe and had left the 2 loose ends of the 2 wires that had to be spliced, it would have saved 15 minutes just with that part. If you dont have a real splicer tool ya gotta be careful to not cut the wires themselves if you use a sharp knife. Just cut the new probe plug off and splice on the old plug from the bad sensor which obviously you have cut and strip as well as I did and then it fits nicely back together like it was ment to be. I put elect tape on the 2 splices, you could use small wire nuts or whatever you desire, but turn the exposed splices back away from each other and tape them to the insulated wire so no exposed wire is touching any metal then I wrapped the completed taped splices with about a 4x5 piece of aluminum foil to help deflect the residual heat coming from the oven when it is on. put the probe through the hole and placed the metal retainer back in place and re- mounted the back panel plate,cover, that was it problem solved. This entire problem was caused originally in this relatively new oven because people who have been using the oven were sitting heavy pots and pans on the oven door and the hinges were sprung. The door would not stay shut during cooking. I dont know how long this had been going on before I discovered the issue. Once I replaced the hinges ( parts select ) the uneven, wrong temp, extended cooking problem jumped up. I am certain it was related to the open door not shutting for several months. They were using a bungie cord to pull the door closed and not completely. At this point I feel very comfortable with using parts select for all my appliance parts and advice. The folks here at my facility think I am an Einstien but when you have parts select working with you in the background you can't go wrong. I asked a hundred questions and learned alot and saved the facility at least 400 dollars by doing it myself. Thanks to my new work buddy PARTS SELECT. I was really a bit apprehensive about the doors hinges they looked dangerous and might have been but the tech I spoke with at P.S. walked me through it on the phone and I read the blogs which are really helpfull SORRY THIS ONE IS SO LONG.

I followed the you tube www.partselect.com. Got door off--easy, and other parts off--easy, as you tube shows--I used the adj wrench to remove old screws--there are two--front one off--easy, the rear one was stripped at factory installation--so got it out, but broke it off in the process. So I had to drill out the part of the screw that remained, and then used a substitute screw (8-32x1/2) on re-assembly. Re-assembly went easy--note that the removal of electrical connection is a "pinch-squeeze" to pull off.