FEF376CJBB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Simply...2 hex head screws removed. Unplug old element...plug in new element...place 2 screws back into place...test

Remove 2 screws. Pull element out. Slide 2 wires off. Just do in reverse it's done.

Removed rear panal, removed screws from of switch. Unplued wires and installed new switch and put back together. Very easy.

This is an easy repair, as described in several other replies. One important addition to what has already been described. Very important to turn off the breaker or unplug the range. One terminal of the range is connected to a hot wire and the range housing is grounded. You may not manage to electrocute yourself, but you could cause and arc that damages the housing or connector. Turn off the power. Beyond that, simple. Unscrew two 1/4" screws with a nut driver, slide the element out and disconnect the wire connectors. Reverse procedure to install the new element and turn the power back on. Preheat briefly to burn off any odor. Very easy repair.

took out the old one, screwed in the new one. very easy.

Remove screws pull off wires and install new parts

It's a simple project. Remove old element and replace it with new one. Access is easy. Only one tool needed. What impressed me was how fast the part got here, like the next day after I ordered it.

Unplug the oven, remove oven racks, unscrew 2 screws at the base of oven bake element, pull the terminals off the wire bases, plug terminals back in, put screws back in place, plug in oven and test that it works...

I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.

First thing I did was turn off power to the range at the circuit breaker. The repair was generally easy with the exception that 1 screw holding the broiler element support was "welded" into the oven ceiling. I stripped the screw trying to get it out. Fortunately, I had a special tool that allows one to grip the outer edge of the screw while turning it --- and that's how I got it apart. Once the broiler element support was off, I removed 2 screws holding the broiler element itself to the oven wall and carefully pulled the broiler element out from the oven wall and detached the wire clips connecting the wires to the broiler element. I reattached the clips onto the new element and installed the new element back into the oven wall. I then reattached the broiler element support using a another screw (because I decimated the original one). I then turned the circuit breaker back on and turned the broiler on. Woila. My broiler works again! Special thanks to the people at this site who were very helpful in seeing to it I got the correct broiler element. The original ordered broiler element was delivered to the wrong address. The folks at this site sent me another one. To make a long story short, they saw to it I got the correct part. I highly recommend this site based on my experience with them.

Drank a beer, grabbed a screwdriver & tried to remove the two screws that held the element in place. The screws were old and when I turned them, they stripped instantly. This required another beer. Eventually I used pliers to grip the sides of the screws to remove and reinsrt them. When I finished the oven worked great, so I celebrated with another beer.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

I had to replace the switch on one of the large elements. It could and should have been a quicker repair if there would have been some installation/wiring instructions included with the part. Other than that the repair went well.

I looked for the proper part on this site. I was even able to find a video on how to install the part. It was great to see the step-by-step directions and tools needed. I ordered the part. It came quickly so that I was able to get my oven repaired before my kids came home for spring break. The only problem I had was the old screws were really stuck on. I used some WD-40 and they were still quite stuck. I learned that by gently going back and forth with the nut driver, rather than just trying to turn in the correct direction, that the screws came out quite easily. I felt so proud to be able to fix my own stove and save money in the process! Very satisfying for a single mom. Couldn't have done it without the video directions.

Turned off power to appliance removed the screws connecting the element. Disconnected the wires from the old element connected the new element replaced the screws and tightened turned power on turned power back on heated oven to be sure it worked. Very simple to do.