MEF352SEDC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I first lifted the top of the stove up where the burners are then removed 7 philips head screws plus the 2 screws that hold the latch in place, which is just above the oven door. I pulled the old latch off the rod that goes to the lock motor.I hen put the new latch in and replced all the screws. Turned the self-cleaning cycle on and it worked perfectly.Thanks to the help of repair guy at Parts Select and the pictures made the repair simple and fast. Thank You Patrs Select

I first unplugged the stove (which was the hardest part), I then set a bright light so I could see near the back of the oven. I then started the task of removing the old element by using a quarter inch nut driver, not to difficult at all. Once I removed the bracket I pulled it out far enough so I could disconnect the wires that were connected to the element. I had a bit of a hard time with one but after a little wiggling I got it loose. I was then able to remove the old element from the oven. I began the replacement of the new one, EASY ! I placed it in the oven, attached the electrical connection to the new element (made sure they snap in tight) and then replaced the bracket that held the element /coil to the back of the oven using the nut driver. All finished in about 15-20 minutes. I am not a strong woman , but a determined one. This fixed the problem and I am now baking like I have a new stove. The surface element is nothing to change , just unplug the old one and plug in the new one (simple). I use my front burner so much that it had began to smoke from so much food dropping and cleaning it over the years. MY main issue was the Bake Element and I really like my range and thought I would try this before buying a new range and I did it myself ! If I can do this anyone can believe me I am NO repair person, but this was very easy to do.

Removed old elements I stalled new ones

pulled oven out, unplugged, unscrewed element attachment to the back of the oven (from the inside). element did not work. we tested the upper element and that did not work either. the burst of sparks, heat and flame from the shorting of the original element caused damage to the computer board. we called a local repair man to change the computer board, and then the unit worked, with our new element that we replaced!

TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER OR UNPLUG FROM SOCKET! Removed back of range panel: easy
Disconnected wires to elements: easy (one broken off)
Replaced connector: easy
Pulled both elements out and replaced: easy
Tested and replaced range back panel: easy

Be careful when handling steel panels...they can cut your hands! Use nutdrivers, they're better than screwdrivers. Use a good flashlight.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. The I reversed the process to install the new element which was exactly the same as the burned out one.
At first I was on the verge of replacing the whole stove before I decided to google " range heating elements". I ordered the part from your company and it arrived promptly.
Needless to say, I am thrilled that I don't have to buy a new stove. This one now works perfectly!

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

2 1/4 inch screws and 2 blade connectors fir the power. Took me longer to find my nutdriver than the repair.

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the wire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.

purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.