FGF324WHSD Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I saw a chart of the oven door at site after I finally got the model number. I actually thought I had ordered the wrong part, third door in was last pane I thought, but actually this is inner most oven door, glass panel four. I had to find a correct screw diver which took awhile. I thought I didn't have the strength to turn the necessary screws, but easily could with correct screw driver. I followed other stories about removing handle, spring loaded door, so be careful it pops apart. A bit tricky to put back together, cause you have to hold door together against spring when you put cap on and door handle. Remove handle, remove top plastic cap. Will see screws holding glass and aluminum shield in place. Remove shield, need to remove screws holding glass two panes with holder. Shield pulls back and this glass just drops in. Reassemble door.

Remove the oven drip pan & burner baffle. unscrew & cut leads to remove old igniter. Splice old leads to new using furnished wire nuts and remount. Job would have been easier with oven door removed, but didnt want to create a new project.

Checked voltage supply to oven igniter, had 120 v
to oven igniter, but igniter was not glowing.

could not determine what part failed.Found Part Select on line useing Bing search.Using virtual repairman and typing in the problem it told me what I needed.Orderd that part on line and reieved it in TWO DAYS,can you believe that! Inatalled that igniter in 15 mins. and now it works like new. Thank You Part Select!!!!!!

I exposed the ignitor through the inside of the oven and then removed the two screws that held it in place. I then cut the wires underneath the stove ans reconnected them to the new part with the wire nuts provided. It was a simple repair.

Unplug appliance. Remove the bottom of the oven (2 screws in back of oven bottom), remove burner cover (2 screws in front and nut in center holding burner). Pull out the bottom storage drawer under the oven and unplug both wires from oven Igniter which are located in the back. One wire plugs into the gas valve and the second wire went into a connector that was on the lower left. I removed the screw on the back oven wall that held the burner so I could remove the burner for ease of work. Remove two screws holding the old igniter. The two screws holding the igniter to the side of the burner were stripped and they took a little time to remove but I replaced them with two new screws I had in my misc. screw drawer and had no issue. Cut the top wire and splice it onto the top wire of the new igniter using the porcelain wire nuts provided. Do the same with the bottom wire. Re-assemble and plug back in. Everything worked perfectly.

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

took drawer out, removed tin covers, found igniter and removed,snipped off parts to put on new igniter ,wirenutted old to new put back together ,we had ignition! all in all pretty easy job! detailed instructions that came with new part were easy to follow and precice

First I took the door off. Then I removed about a dozen screws. Than my wife insisited on cleaning the other two windows! Since the inside window was broken ;a lot of grease had gotten on the other two windows.She said she would never have another chance. After that I put everything back together. It took about an hour all together.

1. Unplugged power cord.
2. Removed warming drawer and oven shelves and lower plate
3. Removed old wirenuts from back of warming draw space (awkward to reach in to the back).
4. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in oven - screws in poor shape and were not reuseable.
5. Found next size up sheetmetal screws and installed new ignitor.
6. Ran wires down adjacent to gas feed into warming drawer space.
7. Connected with wirenuts supplied with ignitor.
8. Replaced everything.
9. Tested oven and ate some tasty blueberry muffins.

I removed the oven bottom which was held by two large head long screws. I then removed the heat deflector using a small socket. The only difficult part was when I went to replace the igniter. The screws that were holding it in place stripped I guess do to the amount of heat they were continually subject too. I had to apply pressure to the igniter bracket while removing the screw using a small socket. Even with that they did not come out easily. If I had not had trouble removing the screws the repair probably would have taken 15 min.

pulled stove out to unplug the electric cord. Took oven door off and removed the bottom panel (2 screws) and then removed the burner (2 screws). took off old igniter ( 2 nut screws). cut wires and stripped the coating to wire to new unit.
Attached new igniter to the burner, and put the burner back in place and replaced the screws so unit was stable.
Turned oven on to make sure ingiter was going to light oven, when oven came on, turned oven off and replaced the cover to the burner and the bottom panel in the oven,. Put the oven door back on........
Probably took 45 minutes.
I ordered the part late Friday afternoon, around 3, and the part was here Saturday Afternoon. I was impressed.