FEF389CFSK Frigidaire Range - Instructions

First thing I did was turn off power to the range at the circuit breaker. The repair was generally easy with the exception that 1 screw holding the broiler element support was "welded" into the oven ceiling. I stripped the screw trying to get it out. Fortunately, I had a special tool that allows one to grip the outer edge of the screw while turning it --- and that's how I got it apart. Once the broiler element support was off, I removed 2 screws holding the broiler element itself to the oven wall and carefully pulled the broiler element out from the oven wall and detached the wire clips connecting the wires to the broiler element. I reattached the clips onto the new element and installed the new element back into the oven wall. I then reattached the broiler element support using a another screw (because I decimated the original one). I then turned the circuit breaker back on and turned the broiler on. Woila. My broiler works again! Special thanks to the people at this site who were very helpful in seeing to it I got the correct broiler element. The original ordered broiler element was delivered to the wrong address. The folks at this site sent me another one. To make a long story short, they saw to it I got the correct part. I highly recommend this site based on my experience with them.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

Drank a beer, grabbed a screwdriver & tried to remove the two screws that held the element in place. The screws were old and when I turned them, they stripped instantly. This required another beer. Eventually I used pliers to grip the sides of the screws to remove and reinsrt them. When I finished the oven worked great, so I celebrated with another beer.

I was forced to call in a pro repairman. Will cost me at least $150 for part and repairman. I could have done job if instructions on how to rewire had been included.

I watched the video of the repair. It was very easy; removed 2 screws; disconnected 2 push-on tabs; removed the element; and then reversed the operation. Be sure to turn off the circuit breaker that powers the oven before you start the repair. Turn it back on when finished and test the oven.

Unscrewed screws in back of oven holding element. Slipped old element off of wire. No need to cut wires has the kind of ends (spade ends I think they are called) that just is pushed on to element. Attached new element. slid wires back into wall of wire rescrewed to oven wall. Very easy just be sure wires don't get pulled back into back wall of oven. Don't know what you would do then.

I simply followed the instructions in your video. i shut down the power to the oven via the breaker panel, removed the two quarter inch screws with a nut driver, pulled out the old element exposing the two wire leads,disconnected one lead at a time and duct taped each lead to the oven wall,. Then removed the old element and replaced the new one in reverse order. Voila! It works great. This is the second element I replaced in this oven over the years. This site was prompt on shipping the new element (about 3 days since I ordered on a Sunday).. It was well packed and arrived on time and I even got an e-mail letting me know it arrived! How cool is that?! I've been a customer for a few years now and plan to be a "forever" customer. Thanks for saving the day! You ROCK!

I removed the oven door using a phillips screwdriver. It was very easy because I didn't have to worry about the door hinges springing the door back. I'm not really handy and it went very easy.

Take the screws out of the inside of oven for the element and slide the oven away from way and remove the back and insert the element to the clips and screw the back of the oven back together and plug in again and push back in place. Very easy for my husband to repair.

I looked for the proper part on this site. I was even able to find a video on how to install the part. It was great to see the step-by-step directions and tools needed. I ordered the part. It came quickly so that I was able to get my oven repaired before my kids came home for spring break. The only problem I had was the old screws were really stuck on. I used some WD-40 and they were still quite stuck. I learned that by gently going back and forth with the nut driver, rather than just trying to turn in the correct direction, that the screws came out quite easily. I felt so proud to be able to fix my own stove and save money in the process! Very satisfying for a single mom. Couldn't have done it without the video directions.

First, I read about the experiences of others who did this repair.

Then I removed the oven door by removing the single screw at each hinge - visible when the door is open - using a #2 Phillips screwdriver (the only tool needed for this repair). I placed the door on the kitchen table and removed the two screws at the inside top of the door - they also hold the handle onto the door.

I placed the four screws removed from the inside corners of the door -- into one corner of a tray I used to hold the parts in order. Then I removed the eight screws from the perimeter of the door and placed them into another corner of the holding tray. Then I turned the door over and removed the outside part of the door from the inside - as in removing the cover from a box.

Then I removed four screws holding the middle and outside glass panels and placed them in another corner of the parts tray. Then I removed two screws holding the steel panel against the glass. Then I removed the broken glass from the bottom of the tray. That's when I discovered I had ordered the wrong glass panel.

I called the PartSelect number to return the glass, and while discussing how to return the part, I asked if I had to call another number to get the correct part. The lady assured me she could process my order for the correct part. She was very knowledgable about the system and quickly found the correct part from the schematic. I received the replacement part 24 hours later and installed it within 20 minutes.

Overall a success story. Excellent service and easy work.

Remove the 2 nuts holding the element in place. Pull the element out slightly to expose the wires. each side of the element has a wire. Slide the wires off. Replace new element. attach wires and pu the 2 screws back in the element holders.

Turned off power to appliance removed the screws connecting the element. Disconnected the wires from the old element connected the new element replaced the screws and tightened turned power on turned power back on heated oven to be sure it worked. Very simple to do.

The problem was caused by the owner placing an aluminum catch pan under the bake element. The failure of the element was where it was in contact with the pan. The repair involved removing two screws pulling out the element to access the wires. The connectors were the pull off type so I just disconnected the wires from the old element and placed them on the new element, pushed the element back in place and replaced the two retaining screws. I suggested that the owner not place anything in contact with the bake element. Be sure to up-plug the stove plug before attempting repair.

All I had to do was loosen the screws, pull out electrical hookup on both ends, hookup new heating element to elecric and screw em into place. That's it, super easy and I got the part in 2 day : )