FEF336ECD Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I follow the video on your site

First we turned off the electic, then we took the back off the stove and pulled the wire off the bad element then replace the new element. It was very easy to do.

There were only 2 screws that held the door handle & cap in place, removed screws & handle to get cap pieces off. Ordered new cap, - lost screws - cap delivered - no screws had to order screws, damn! They're expensive too !! Got screws, installed handle & cap, now wife is happy again!

in the bottom of the oven when I was looking to see what was going on. My husband did the repair just as the video described. I suspect this part honeycomb round maybe ceramic piece goes over where the heat is vented from the oven. Where do I get another one of these and how does it attach in the oven-under the burner. HELP I tried to look on the schematics and did not see anything. The repair went fine, except when we turned everything back on it did not work. Then my husband remembered he forgot to plug the new part IN. Once plugged in it is working fine. Thanks

Removed two screws that are attached to handle then removed four screws from bottom edge of oven door. I was then able to remove the outer door glass,this gave me access to the three inner glasses. After removing the retainer for the glass assembly,I was able to remove all three and replace the inner one.I reversed this proceedure to reassemble.

removed the screws holding the front part of the door and from there worked my way, untill the third glass.
It took a couple hours, my first time,. Overall easy,

Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson

With the draw glide, I simply had to slide it into position. To replace the clock, I had to remove the back panel and then replace the broken clock with the new one by simply turning a few screws and using a pair pliers to removing the color coded wires.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

Shut off power - throw breaker. Oven access easier with door removed - requires removal of two Phillips head screws. Remove two screws holding element in place using 1/4" socket. Pull element & wires out and pull slide in connectors out (had to hold the wire end with needle nose pliers}. Installed element by reversing the removal procedures. Also good time to clean oven.

removed screws,unplugged terminal leads,installed new one,back in business.

I simply followed the instructions in your video. i shut down the power to the oven via the breaker panel, removed the two quarter inch screws with a nut driver, pulled out the old element exposing the two wire leads,disconnected one lead at a time and duct taped each lead to the oven wall,. Then removed the old element and replaced the new one in reverse order. Voila! It works great. This is the second element I replaced in this oven over the years. This site was prompt on shipping the new element (about 3 days since I ordered on a Sunday).. It was well packed and arrived on time and I even got an e-mail letting me know it arrived! How cool is that?! I've been a customer for a few years now and plan to be a "forever" customer. Thanks for saving the day! You ROCK!

turned off breaker 3 Phil screws open door and on inside range top I would reconmend a board to hold top up square tip for cross bar and pliers to pull wires off fit perfect works really nice

I watched the video of the repair. It was very easy; removed 2 screws; disconnected 2 push-on tabs; removed the element; and then reversed the operation. Be sure to turn off the circuit breaker that powers the oven before you start the repair. Turn it back on when finished and test the oven.

This is an easy repair, as described in several other replies. One important addition to what has already been described. Very important to turn off the breaker or unplug the range. One terminal of the range is connected to a hot wire and the range housing is grounded. You may not manage to electrocute yourself, but you could cause and arc that damages the housing or connector. Turn off the power. Beyond that, simple. Unscrew two 1/4" screws with a nut driver, slide the element out and disconnect the wire connectors. Reverse procedure to install the new element and turn the power back on. Preheat briefly to burn off any odor. Very easy repair.