GLEF369DCG Frigidaire Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Rick from Montpelier, IN
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Burner would get hot, but would not turn down.
To find problem. I turn the power off to range. Removed top back panel. Removed switch and found there was a black spot on white covering of switch. So I order a switch. When it came I turn power off to range. Removed the top panel on back of range. Removed one wire at a time and put it on the new switch. Once all wires were on new switch. I removed old switch and installed new one. I then reinstalled the top back panel and turned the power back on. It is really easy to do. If you are not confident enough. Take a picture of the back of range before removing the panel. Then take a picture of the wires before you remove them.
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- Customer:
- Donnie from McLaughlin, SD
- Parts Used:
- 316490001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
oven was too hot code f-10 came up
Pulled out range, unplugged power used nut driver to remove back and removed oven probe. Had to change end and reinstalled in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Orange, TX
- Parts Used:
- 316135401
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broke element.
Easy to put in but i droped a screw to hold the element. had to pull another screw to fix it
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- Customer:
- ruben from moss point, MS
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
range top left big burner would not come on.
I disconnected the power cord,took the top back plate off,the switch knob on the switch I was to change,the two screws holding it.pull the old switch out,place the new one in the holder,replaced the two screws that holds the switch and took the wires off the old switch one at a time and placed them on the new one in order on new switch.replaced the back cover and plugged power cord back in.turned range on,it was good. r taite,
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- Customer:
- Alvie from Pasco, WA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
replaced the infinite burner switch
I watched you vedio and done just as the vedio told me how to change the switch. When I got the switch on pluged it in turned it on and every thing work great. thank you very much.
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- Customer:
- ronnie from cana, VA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
the stove eye would go to high and stay
watched the veido first then un pluged the stove then i took out 6 screws and 2 from the switch and reversed every thing
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- Customer:
- David C from Huntington Beach, CA
- Parts Used:
- 316490001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Temperature not correct.
Pull out stove. Unplug power. Remove four screws on each corner and loosen one screw in the middle. Remove back panel. Locate and unplug sensor connector. Remove one screw from sensor plate. Turn the sensor 45 degrees and pull sensor out from the rear. Connector received had the incorrect plug and terminals so it was necessaary to splice the connector from the one removed to the one received. Cut and splice wires as necessary. Install sensor, install back panel, plug in electrical power, push stove back into position. I used a temperature gauge to check temperature after stove was in position. In my case the temperature had to be adjusted which is a keyboard function on this unit.
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- Customer:
- Russell from Glenmoore, PA
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
element light staying lit
Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.
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- Customer:
- Smtella from Wappapello, MO
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
My burner would stay on high regardless of where it was set.
We removed the back of the stove, unscrewed switch from the stove face and unplugged the wires from the old switch. The new switch was universal so I had to follow the numbers by the prong on the old switch to determine which was the correct prong to plug the wires, plugged them in, screwed the switch back to the stove face and replaced the back Viola all fixed.
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- Customer:
- Catherine from Bowie, AZ
- Parts Used:
- 316490001
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven turning off ater Pre- Heating
Talked to someone who knows , DX'd the potential problem,looked for the part on your very user friendly website and your DX was exactly what my oven was doing, when the Thermo-Sensor arrived, I unplugged the oven, removed the metal back, took out the faulty Sensor, replaced it very easy then realized the plug was different, so called a friend who knows how to Solder and 2 hrs, later, my oven was repaired and I began baking an Apple pie to repay a friends kindness The pie was perfectly baked , my friend was happy and so am I ,the baker, just before the holidays Thank you Parts Select for helpful DX and speedy delivery - seems you saved Christmas for me.
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- Customer:
- Cheryl from Derby, NY
- Parts Used:
- 5304503232
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
inner oven door glass broken
I was unable to loosen the screws myself so I called my friends husband to help me. We watched the video together and followed the instructions. The door in the video was a bit different than mine but this repair was easy.
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No heat to large coil; erratic heat with clicking noise to small coil
I followed the Parts Select Video that showed replacing an identical switch. Mine were another brand & style with different color wires. I took a picture of 1 to keep track of the wiring and removed it. I saw that the terminals were marked P, H1, H2, L1, & L2 so I put the wire from the same terminal onto the Parts Select switches & they work just fine now. The parts I got from you are heavier and a much better quality than the original equipment. I would also like to say that I was amazed at how fast this order was shipped, and the washer pump was a piece of cake thanks to your video.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Moorestown, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 316436001
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Right Rear burner stopped working
I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.
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- Customer:
- Neal from Warsaw, IN
- Parts Used:
- 5304503232
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken inner glass
Removed oven door. Removed screws from bottom of door as well as handle screws. Remove inner panel to expose glass. Replaced glass panel and reverse steps. Very easy.
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- Customer:
- Nathaniel J. from Miami Gardens, FL
- Parts Used:
- 316415900
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The bottom heating element had stop working.
I had order a replacement baking element to start, without trouble shooting the problem. When I had replaced the new bake element, set the oven to bake @ 350*F & watch for the baking element to heat up,it did not heat up. I waited for the oven to cool down,pulled the unit out & unpluged it from the receptacle.I removed the back cover,then I used my volt/ohm meter to check for contunity from the switch to both side of the element. Measured the ohms of the 3 bake elements,all good. Verfied that diodes were ok & there was no open resistors on the circuit board.No proble found. Put the back cover on, pluged the unit into the electrical outlet, pushed the unit back in placed, set the oven to bake @ 350*F, problem solved. My wife have bake several cakes & I cooked Sunday dinner using the oven. The real problem may have been an open circuit between the bottom bake elament & the switch. The repair was completed on 12/02/2012.
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