FGF353BADL Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I had the part number from the manufacturer manual and they sent me a knob with a different number that did not look the same on the front of the stove and stuck out like a sore thumb. So I had to send it back after several more calls and more e-mails.
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First unplugged the oven from the wall and then I removed the bottom floor of the oven by removing the two screws at the back. Then I removed the heat shield over the burner by remove the two screws at the front of the oven and removed the nut in the middle of the heat shield that was hold the shield to the burner. I removed the two screws on the flat oven igniter and cut the two wires on the igniter and pulled the two wires through the open in the bottom oven from the drawer opening. Mounted the new igniter and feed the two wire from the igniter through the open in the bottom of the oven, Stripped the two wires that I cut from the oven, twisted the new wires to the old, and put the wire nuts on. Last I put everything back together and baked dinner. Took ten about minutes and saved a thousand dollars because I was going to buy a new oven. Thanks, Partselect.

Unplugged the appl. I removed the bottom of the oven. Disconnected the two wires. Removed two screws that hold the element in place. Replaced it. And put everything back together. Since this element goes bad about every year an a half, I keep one on hand all the time.

replaced it

I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

I replaced both gas valve and igniter. I removed oven door and bottom of oven for easy access to both. The door slid off easy and the bottom was held by two thumb screws. I removed the gas flare for easy access to igniter & valve. I then removed the igniter & valve using nutdriver, phillips screwdriver and adj wrench. I then followed simple instructions supplied for wire connect on igniter and valve. It was a very easy job for a 25 yr old stove. I made the mistake of ordering only the valve and ordered the igniter later. Having both new parts causes the oven to light in about 30 seconds. Im glad I found partselect online. Nh, westerville, oh

followed online instructions

I simply searched YouTube for the problem I was having and foud it was probably caused by a bad part. I found the part online and ordered it. It was as simple as a few screws and a couple wire-nuts to install. My girlfrind was very happy to get the oven fixed !!!!
Thanks parts-select for having pictures and dimensions so I was sure I had ordered the exact right part.
I was soooo happy to have found you !

1. Unplugged power cord.
2. Removed warming drawer and oven shelves and lower plate
3. Removed old wirenuts from back of warming draw space (awkward to reach in to the back).
4. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in oven - screws in poor shape and were not reuseable.
5. Found next size up sheetmetal screws and installed new ignitor.
6. Ran wires down adjacent to gas feed into warming drawer space.
7. Connected with wirenuts supplied with ignitor.
8. Replaced everything.
9. Tested oven and ate some tasty blueberry muffins.

took drawer out, removed tin covers, found igniter and removed,snipped off parts to put on new igniter ,wirenutted old to new put back together ,we had ignition! all in all pretty easy job! detailed instructions that came with new part were easy to follow and precice

Followed service sheet. Measured 2.6 amps draw at igniter wire which should have been 3.2 amps. Replaced igniter and problem resolved.

Remove the oven drip pan & burner baffle. unscrew & cut leads to remove old igniter. Splice old leads to new using furnished wire nuts and remount. Job would have been easier with oven door removed, but didnt want to create a new project.

My husband was able to easily remove the old part, and replace with the new ignitor. The wires were long, so he took the extra precaution of tying them away from the flame. It took longer to take everything out and put it back together than the actual repair..

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.