FEFL63FSA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

New ones fit perfectly. Take a minute to bend the frame straight. Then and I used oversize screws on the replacement parts as the drop had stripped out the screw holes of the frame.

Shut off power - throw breaker. Oven access easier with door removed - requires removal of two Phillips head screws. Remove two screws holding element in place using 1/4" socket. Pull element & wires out and pull slide in connectors out (had to hold the wire end with needle nose pliers}. Installed element by reversing the removal procedures. Also good time to clean oven.

removed screws,unplugged terminal leads,installed new one,back in business.

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.

My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections.
Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.

was easy open the back side of the range and change the part, the only issue was the wire I used the diagram

Turned off power to appliance removed the screws connecting the element. Disconnected the wires from the old element connected the new element replaced the screws and tightened turned power on turned power back on heated oven to be sure it worked. Very simple to do.

I looked for the proper part on this site. I was even able to find a video on how to install the part. It was great to see the step-by-step directions and tools needed. I ordered the part. It came quickly so that I was able to get my oven repaired before my kids came home for spring break. The only problem I had was the old screws were really stuck on. I used some WD-40 and they were still quite stuck. I learned that by gently going back and forth with the nut driver, rather than just trying to turn in the correct direction, that the screws came out quite easily. I felt so proud to be able to fix my own stove and save money in the process! Very satisfying for a single mom. Couldn't have done it without the video directions.

first thing was to turn the breakers off. then pull the range away from the wall. used an 1/8 th inch socket to take off the back panel to get access to the switch.used a Phillips screwdriver to disconnect the switch under the knob in the front. took off the wire terminals one at a time and matched it to the numbers on the old switch.replaced the knob, screwed it on to the range. turned the breakers on and tested the switch.worked fine, replaced the back cover and pushed it back into place.

I had to replace the switch on one of the large elements. It could and should have been a quicker repair if there would have been some installation/wiring instructions included with the part. Other than that the repair went well.

after pulling away from wall and unplugging remove 5 screws in upper back panel lift off being careful of sharp edges if part of lens is still in hole push it out towards the front insert lens from front of unit slide light assy over pin on back of lens replace back panel plug in range push back against wall check for level you're done

The problem was caused by the owner placing an aluminum catch pan under the bake element. The failure of the element was where it was in contact with the pan. The repair involved removing two screws pulling out the element to access the wires. The connectors were the pull off type so I just disconnected the wires from the old element and placed them on the new element, pushed the element back in place and replaced the two retaining screws. I suggested that the owner not place anything in contact with the bake element. Be sure to up-plug the stove plug before attempting repair.

this bake element has two special Hex style screws, securing it in place, but a nut driver worked just as well. remove the baking racks, and then loosen the two hex screws. slowly pull the element out of the back wall and then disconnect the electric leads. reinstall by doing then the opposite action. could not have be simpler.

Remove the 2 nuts holding the element in place. Pull the element out slightly to expose the wires. each side of the element has a wire. Slide the wires off. Replace new element. attach wires and pu the 2 screws back in the element holders.

Turned off range/oven breaker. Opened the oven door. Removed two 5/16 hex head screws. Pulled bake element forward and removed the two slip on electrical connections from old bake element and put them on the new one. Replaced the two screws, closed the oven door, and proceeded to overhaul the kitchen faucet.