FED300BEBB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

First I want to thank Part Select for having the video online or I would not have attempted the repair. Also I saved over $75 on the parts!!!!!! It would have cost me $105 for parts and $125 for service tech to replace the burned off terminal blocks with new ones. Parts cost me $35 with shippiing, I did the repair saving me $195 !!!!!!!!! I replaced the parts as describied in the video and all is well. By the way, I got the parts in less than 24hours after ordering, cheaper than driving 30 miles to pick up overpriced parts !!!!

Reviewed the online repair video a few times then got started. Although only two were bad, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I removed the range top instead of using the built in kick stands. this left me much more room to work and I was able to clean the top of the range really well before getting started. Wires for the back terminals where short and a little difficult to use after cutting off the old terminal blocks. The terminal block mounting option for my style range included with the repair kit would not allow me to utilize the screw for the third wire on the left rear burner. I used a drill to carefully widen the hole in the mount to make the original screw fit as there are no screws included with the kit. This added the extra time to complete the repair. Over all the repair was simple to complete but having to modify the terminal block mount was dissapointing considering the web site selected parts for my specific model number. Still a bargain compared to what a service call or new purchase costs. I will be reparing my ranges from now on.

Used a screw driver to loosen 2 screws and the pulled the tabs off the old element and installed the new element. I am probably the most "unhandy " guy in the world but this was a snap. I am as surprised as anyone.

repair was pretty simple. i pulled stove out from cabinet and unplugged it. Then i removed the screws that hold the face panel in place and gently slid out panel as far as i could without damaging wires. i had to remove the small switches that control the two two size burners as well as one thermostat on the right side so i can access the nuts holding the plastic end caps in place. i diagramed the color coded wires so i didnt mix them up.took off the old end caps replaced with new caps and put back together.. took about a half hour as this was my first time inside the guts of this stove.. stove is baack in place and as good as new again.

Took screws loose, unplugged old one plugged in new one put screws back

Square drive screws used throughout the oven since its manufactured in Canada. Shut power down to the range. Element fastener plate removed and 2 electrical terminals loosened. Used a pair of hemostats to hold on to the wires so as not to lose them to the interior back of the oven which was loaded with insulation. Connected the 2 wires to the new element, screwed the element fastening plate with element back to the back of the oven wall. Turned power back on and voila, I was back in business.

Just put the drip plates in stovetop and worked perfectly

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

Very simply following the online video instructions.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!