FGF326WGSG Frigidaire Range - Instructions

We took out the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one....now we don't have to buy a new oven!!!!!

I just opened the package and put the knob on and it fit nicely and it turned the oven off very easy and what made me happy it was the perfect fit I would order here again for parts

turn the gas off unplugged it form electric removed the line took the flame plate off removed burner tube and the screw out with a nut driver that was all just put it back in reverse

I just installed the extra rack and re-arranged the existing ones. Works great!

removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one. now it works great!

The foul order was the cause of a "Mummified Rat" that I found on the bottom Left /outside wall of the oven. I first Unplugged the stove and turned off the gas. I removed the grates and the burners. Each burner is held down with two (2) 3/16" screws which makes it a total of eight (8) screws in all. After removing all eight screws, you can now pop up the burner lid with a putty knife or a large Screw Driver. I used a large screw driver, After removing the "Lid" you will then see the "Insulation Blanket" draped over the oven, to remove this blanket there are two (2) copper wires securing the blanket in place, you'll have to cut these in order to install your New Blanket. Removing the "Blanket " is a "No Brainer" just be cautious and don't snag any of the "Igniter Wires" The "Insulation Blanket" goes on one way, this can be identified by the pre-cuts on the blanket. I started out on the left side of the stove, and had the right side of the "Blanket rolled up. As I tucked the "Blanket" under the "igniter Wires" and slowly and gently feeding it with my left hand till it lines up with the pre-cut and drapes itself into place as you maneuver it down with your hands Now start with the right side by unrolling the "Blanket" and following the same procedure making sure the "Insulation Blanket" is fully extended on both sides of the oven.

The three bolts that held the burner busted off when tring to loosen. I drilled out the old studs and replaced with self tapping screws.

Moved the stove. Used the template to position the bracket. Put the supplied screws to attach bracket to the floor. Slid stove back into place. DONE!

I pulled the top cover from inside the oven off and unscrewed 2 screws to remove the heat plate. After i unplugged the adapter for the old ignitor apart and unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws that hole the ignitor to the plate. i replaced with the new ignitor, screwed back in place , plugged the 2 wires and the adaptor plug in and i was done , in less that 30 mins.. I also saved $180 (Sears $260) on this do it yourself repair.. Thanks PartSelect for having the part in stock.... R Diaz (Bklyn N.Y.)

Removed the old oven racks and put in the new ones.

Removed the door and carefully dismantled all of the layers. In my particular situation, I needed to do some high heat painting as over the years the white panels had discolored due to heat. So, I had to wait a day or so for the painted panels to dry--but they looked great when done. Some words of caution, really look the diagrams over and be sure you are ordering the correct glass (there are three and all different). I initially ordered the wrong one but used it anyway as it replaced a badly stained one. But, I had to re-order the correct glass. It was amazing how quickly I got both orders, though. Only took a couple of days!! So, am very pleased with the way it looks--like new again and quite easy if done systematically!

Unplug the stove from the wall socket. Remove the oven door as shown in the instructions for replacing the door. This makes the job a lot easier. At the rear of the bottom panel there is a screw at each corner. Remove these screws, a screwdriver will loosen them, then remove by hand. If you have a convection oven remove the fan cover as this prevents the bottom panel from coming out. There is a screw at the top and the bottom of the cover. You can then gently lift the bottom panel at the rear and work it out of the front lip. Install the new bottom panel in reverse order.

I got the ex husband to come over and take it apart and fix it, he said that it was a really easy repair to complete.

Bought a electric range/oven with a broken glass in the door cheaply because the owner didn't think they could fix the glass. I watched the video on You Tube on how to handle the spring loaded hinges and followed the steps as presented. The toughest part of the job was cleaning all the crud on all of the glass due to the gap in the inner glass. I had to use a square drive and a phillips head screwdriver to disassemble and reassemble the door. It took less than 30 minutes to complete the job and most of that time was cleaning the glass.

The electrode was sparking to ground through the cracked ceramic rather than within the ignition zone. I used spray electronic contact cleaner to free rusted screws (different metals often contract at different rates and separate under the very cold spray). Replacing the electrode was a simple substitution. Also sprayed the spade terminal pair to remove any corrosion. Worked first time.