GLEFM397DBA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

My friend used a tester to determine where each wire was supposed to connect to. I'm not sure what he did with the extra connections.
Bottom line is this part should work but you need an expert to do it for you because it's, like I said, not exactly like the one to be replaced.

after pulling away from wall and unplugging remove 5 screws in upper back panel lift off being careful of sharp edges if part of lens is still in hole push it out towards the front insert lens from front of unit slide light assy over pin on back of lens replace back panel plug in range push back against wall check for level you're done

The original instructions were to replace burner and plug wires back in the same plug they came from.
The problem is that the plug order had changed between parts.
Use a pencil to highligt the plug numbers on both new and old plugset, to fint the new plug positions. And need to reorient one of the burners to allow existing wires to reach.

Watched the included video and duplicated.

Took out old screws and replaced with new

replaced it

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

Removed old fan and replaced with new fan. To replace fan, the over interior fan blade was removed, then the two slip on wires were removed from the old fan motor, then the three screws securing the old fan motor were removed. The process was reversed to install replacement fan

remove back panel took out old part splice wire replaced

Easy as 1-2-3

Ordering the part was easy.

simple, removed a few screw's, unplugged old burner, plugged in the new one. that was basically it. easy!

I unplugged the stove. Then I lifted up the top of the stove to expose the burners. I unscrewed the necessary screws and plugs that attached the old burner to the stove. Then I simply put the new one back in it's place. The stove was one of those flat burner stoves, and I was a little concerned that I would be able to do it. The repair man wanted to charge me $150.00 for labor.

This is a slide in oven fully contained not in a wall, or wood enclosure. I slid the unit out away from the wall unplugged the power cord, used the nut driver to remove a dozen screws, not all of them, you dont need to pull the top back plate off just unscrew the bottom 3-4 screws on the top plate to release the lower back cover plate and you see the probe wire and the insertion point/hole. I actually did not even need to pull the full back plate off but it makes the handling of all the tools and stripping easier. I wish they had just left the plug off of the new probe and had left the 2 loose ends of the 2 wires that had to be spliced, it would have saved 15 minutes just with that part. If you dont have a real splicer tool ya gotta be careful to not cut the wires themselves if you use a sharp knife. Just cut the new probe plug off and splice on the old plug from the bad sensor which obviously you have cut and strip as well as I did and then it fits nicely back together like it was ment to be. I put elect tape on the 2 splices, you could use small wire nuts or whatever you desire, but turn the exposed splices back away from each other and tape them to the insulated wire so no exposed wire is touching any metal then I wrapped the completed taped splices with about a 4x5 piece of aluminum foil to help deflect the residual heat coming from the oven when it is on. put the probe through the hole and placed the metal retainer back in place and re- mounted the back panel plate,cover, that was it problem solved. This entire problem was caused originally in this relatively new oven because people who have been using the oven were sitting heavy pots and pans on the oven door and the hinges were sprung. The door would not stay shut during cooking. I dont know how long this had been going on before I discovered the issue. Once I replaced the hinges ( parts select ) the uneven, wrong temp, extended cooking problem jumped up. I am certain it was related to the open door not shutting for several months. They were using a bungie cord to pull the door closed and not completely. At this point I feel very comfortable with using parts select for all my appliance parts and advice. The folks here at my facility think I am an Einstien but when you have parts select working with you in the background you can't go wrong. I asked a hundred questions and learned alot and saved the facility at least 400 dollars by doing it myself. Thanks to my new work buddy PARTS SELECT. I was really a bit apprehensive about the doors hinges they looked dangerous and might have been but the tech I spoke with at P.S. walked me through it on the phone and I read the blogs which are really helpfull SORRY THIS ONE IS SO LONG.

unscrewed brace attached to element without any problem and secured the wire so that it would not fall behind liner. Connector was a bit hard to disconnect so asked my handyman to detach it - I was not familiar with this connection and did not want to break it - he did it w/o problems and attached the new bake element pronto. How easy can it get!