FEF358BFDA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Originally I had anticipated a major problem requiring the removal of the back of the range and perhaps the necessity of employing the services of a repairman ($$!). Fortunately I waited for the arrival of the replacement element, which, upon inspection, was not configured to go through to the back of the range. What a relief!

The hardest part of the repair was finding the correct nutdriver (5/16"). Removal of the damaged element was simply backing out the two retaining screws inside the oven and pulling the element out far enough to expose the clips to the wire. Pulling them apart was easy enough, and then the element I disposed of immediately.

Reverse of removal of the old element was the installation of the new: Reconnect the clips to the element, push the wires back into the insulation, re-inserting the two retaining screws and tightening them gently.

The final step was to plug the range 220 cord into the outlet. Testing whether the element was functional was a breeze; the oven and the range elements worked perfectly.

The broil element and range were both working so I removed the bake element to test for continuity. Use a 1/4” socket or wrench to remove the two screws holding the bake element to the rear wall of the inside of the oven. Pull the ends of the element out of their recesses taking care not to lose a wire inside the back panel of the oven. Pull the wires off the element ends. You should be able to do this by hand; use a flathead screwdriver for a little prying if necessary. Visually inspect the element for physical damage. If you don’t see any, test the element with an ohmmeter or multimeter. If it reads anything other than 0 ohms (continuity), your element is defective. Installation process is reverse of removal.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Very simple. Removed oven rack that had melted residue on it and replaced it with the new one from your company. I want to tell you that the delivery service I received was just geat. Took less than 48 hours to arrive at my home from the time I placed the order on line. Keep up the good work and I will be happy to share my experience with those in need of you services. Thanks. Marilyn Kasson

First we turned off the electic, then we took the back off the stove and pulled the wire off the bad element then replace the new element. It was very easy to do.

First I removed the oven door from the range by removing 2 screws from the door. Next I removed 2 more screws from the oven door to get to the panel beneath. Once the top portion of the door was removed there were 4 nuts holding the glass sections together. Once these nuts were out I removed the broken class, replaced it with the new glass and reassembled. It was a very easy and quick project. I was so happy to find the part. I thought I was going to have to buy a new range. Thanks.

Unplugged the stove first !
Removed bake element ; (2 screws), looked OK,
measured with an Ohm meter, measured "open".
Also, removed rear cover (6-screws), wires not burnt. Ordered new element-rec'd next day! My wife installed it and replaced rear cover. Works great (oven!) and about $10 cheaper and quicker than from a local dealer!

I follow the video on your site

Got a copy of the parts breakdown for the oven door from partselect. Com. Removed 8 screws from outer frame (3 top, 3 bottom, 1 on eah side). Removed the main glass pane from oven door, be careful when doing this as this is most of the weight of the door. It will want close on its own due to lack of weight. Removed the 2 top screws that attach the handle. Removed some screws from some plates that retain the 2 panes of glass of glass. Removed the third (most inner, broken) pane of glass. Replaced with new one. Reversed disassebly procedure for assembly.

Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.

I watched the video of the repair. It was very easy; removed 2 screws; disconnected 2 push-on tabs; removed the element; and then reversed the operation. Be sure to turn off the circuit breaker that powers the oven before you start the repair. Turn it back on when finished and test the oven.

I simply followed the instructions in your video. i shut down the power to the oven via the breaker panel, removed the two quarter inch screws with a nut driver, pulled out the old element exposing the two wire leads,disconnected one lead at a time and duct taped each lead to the oven wall,. Then removed the old element and replaced the new one in reverse order. Voila! It works great. This is the second element I replaced in this oven over the years. This site was prompt on shipping the new element (about 3 days since I ordered on a Sunday).. It was well packed and arrived on time and I even got an e-mail letting me know it arrived! How cool is that?! I've been a customer for a few years now and plan to be a "forever" customer. Thanks for saving the day! You ROCK!

just put in slot

Simply...2 hex head screws removed. Unplug old element...plug in new element...place 2 screws back into place...test

Unscrewed screws in back of oven holding element. Slipped old element off of wire. No need to cut wires has the kind of ends (spade ends I think they are called) that just is pushed on to element. Attached new element. slid wires back into wall of wire rescrewed to oven wall. Very easy just be sure wires don't get pulled back into back wall of oven. Don't know what you would do then.