FPEF3077QFM Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Replaced infinite control very easily.

Removed the defective part. Install the new part, insert the connectors. Now its working

Easy watched on line video

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.

removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back

Opened the breaker on the main electrical panel and disconnected wires from junction box. Checked to make sure power was off with multimeter. Fed wires through the wall before removing oven.
Most difficult part was removal and replacement of the wall oven itself. Needed help from my wife getting it out, had to protect floor and have a furniture dolly.
Once our, removed back paneling screws and noticed one of the wires connected to the thermal cutoff switch was burned and had damaged the part. Replacement of the switch was simple but I did need new crimp on connector for the damaged wire. Had to use crimping tool for that repair.
Then once I put panels back on oven, had to use car jacks to lift the oven high enough to slide back into opening. Make sure you feed wires through wall before sliding oven back in. Connected power, closed breaker and turned on oven to verify proper operation.

Pulled oven away from cabinet area
Unplugged oven from wall outlet
Removed screws to free top panel from back of oven
Removed screws to free lower panel from back of oven
Probe backing was now exposed
Unplugged probe from connector
Removed one screw from probe housing
Twisted probe housing counterclockwise then pulled probe out
Reversed the process to install probe
Plugged probe into connector
Reversed the panel removal process
Plugged oven back in to wall outlet
Turned on oven and tested with no further issue

Called fridgidaire and they told me the a F31 code means my temperature sensor is not working.
So I ordered one online. I installed it and I still have F31 code and still won't work. So what now? Do I trust them to tell me another part?

replaced it

I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.

I unplugged the Stove/Oven electrical cord from the wall, then removed the oven door by unlocking the door brackets with a flat head screw driver then closing the door to the last position before it closes and removing the door from the stove (found instructions on YouTube - very easy, which is optional), then removed the oven racks. Removing the door made it a lot easier to access the broil element and element support bracket screws using a socket wrench. I removed the screws from the rear cover on the back of the stove with a socket wrench to access and disconnect the broil element wires with my hand (pliers if needed). I removed the old broil element and inserted and reconnected the new broil element wires, then re-installed the rear cover. I tightened the broil element in place then re-installed the element support bracket and screws, replaced the oven racks, re-installed the oven door and plugged the stove into the wall. This took about twenty minutes and the broil element is working fine.

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

The infinite switch arrived promptly and while not a perfect match fit the range fine. It took me a few extra minutes to figure out the wiring configuration, but it was fairly easy. I was very pleased with Parts Select's service.

Large burner would cycle on and off per temp setting a few times. Then it would stick on high. Read other problems people had with the burner switch, which helped to determine the problem. Instillation per video was pretty straight forward; but the issue I ran into was when pulling off the wires from old switch, there was a short wire which connected to the indicator light. The abrupt release yanked the wire which caused the lens indicator to snap. So, when you are repairing the switch, be aware if there is enough slack in the wires to prevent that issue

Checked the burner and no power to heat the burner. removed the old switch and put on the new one.