GCRG3038AFB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

took the two screws out by hand, slipped out the ruined panel, slid the new one in place, replaced the two screws...simple as that

It went really well until test when the flame was reaching up into the oven itself, not good. Much research finally found an older repairman who informed me the nozzle that injects the gas into the oven burner had to be fully screwed down for LP Gas. The unit is pre-set for Natural Gas. Tightened it all the way down and everything works just fine. We live rurally so use Liquid Propane Gas, not Natural Gas.

The installation of the bake burner tube went well. I followed the instructions within the Video as it pertains to replacing the Bake igniter. That video also describes the removal and replacement of the bake burner tube. The original screws that mounted the igniter to the burner tube bracket were damaged. I replaced them with 18-8 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws, 8-32 Thread Size, 3/8" long. As noted in the video, the oven bottom panel is removed using a flat head screwdriver. For all other screws I used a 1/4" socket and ratchet. A Nut Driver would have also worked just as well. On initial start-up after the repair there was a minor light odor from the flame coming into contact with the new metal burner tube that dissipated within a few moments. In all everything went very well.

Unplugged oven range, removed oven door (makes the work much easier, you can find how on YouTube) removed two bottom panels. Removed warming drawer to gain access to wires. Traced wire from ignitor unplugged it. Unscrewed ignitor from bracket. Carefully screwed new ignitor onto bracket. Plugged it in. Plugged in oven range. Turned on oven to verify proper operation. Turned off oven once it lit for a few seconds then replaced warming drawer, bottom panels and oven door.

Repair was east but the price I paid through you was 3 times what I found elsewhere. I made a mistake ordering through your expensive company

I followed the guidance of the YouTube video presented by Steve from your company. It was very easy and direct. The only issue I had was disconnecting the igniter clip, once I wa able to remove the old one, everything else was simple. I really appreciate this video because it saved me a ton of money for repair cost. I will use this process again even if it is my refrigerator because it is a Frigidaire also. Thanks to Steve who was very direct, on point, and patient with making this repair video. Kudos!

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

I follow the instructions that I received from the e-mail.

Removed two screws that are attached to handle then removed four screws from bottom edge of oven door. I was then able to remove the outer door glass,this gave me access to the three inner glasses. After removing the retainer for the glass assembly,I was able to remove all three and replace the inner one.I reversed this proceedure to reassemble.

removed the screws holding the front part of the door and from there worked my way, untill the third glass.
It took a couple hours, my first time,. Overall easy,

Removed old Oven Bake igniter, aligned it and installed the new Oven Bake Igniter.

Followed the instructions that were included in the package and it went very well with no problems. . . . .

First thing. If your wife insists on helping buy 2
Because the first one will mysteriously come up broke. Just saying
This is a very easy replacement project. You can do it. TURN POWER OFF TO RANGE BEFORE REPLACING IGNITER Remove a couple screws take the heat shield out. Remove the bottom drawer unplug the igniter remove a couple screws holding the igniter in place. Replace the igniter and screws. Plug in the igniter replace bottom drawer. Screw heat shield back down. Turn power to stove back on. You’re done

First we replaced the wiring harness because a multi-meter said it wasn’t getting power. That was only partially true. The wiring harness was burned looking so we just kept it instead of sending it back. When the spark module got here the burner caps were removed and then the wires were noted where they went on the module and then the power and gas were turned off. The spark module was removed and then the stove was tested and we were back in business.