CFEF3017USB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

Easy as 1-2-3

removed six nutdriver screws and removed rear cover. the only problem i had was the new switch they sent was a little larger then the orig.had to figure out the wires. fit good and works perfect.

It cannot be cleaned as it welded itself to oven bottom. Two screws in back of oven bottom and it lifted right out. The new bottom says "do not use aluminum foil" Very easy repair.

pull back panel, 2 screws & one wire at a time.....And don't forget to KILL POWER!!!!super easy works great now and the wife loves it.

un bolted the 6 nut driver heads found probe wire un pluged it 1/4 turn from lock it was in and pull out replace slide in new probe 1/4 turn to lock it in place replace nut driver self tappers and test simple!!

Replaced the control I got from you , even though it was a little different the lugs matched up and works great.

Initially we realized there was a problem while cooking with the large eyes and we began hearing an electrical short behind the control switch. I unplugged the power from the oven/cooktop and removed the back panel where I could visually see soot on the switches where it was shorted. Careful while choosing your part from the diagram on Partselect.com. For the model FEF336ECJ, atleast for my oven, the eye switches were reversed and I ordered the small eye's switches! Luckily they have an outstanding customer support and immediately mailed out the new parts and a label to send the wrong parts back. Changing the parts out was very simple. Pull the oven out and UNPLUG IT from any electrical outlet. Remove the back panel. Double check from the label on the front of the control panel that you are working with the correct switch, and before removing the current switch, remove the wires one by one and place them on the new part to make sure you don't misplace these wires. Once the wires are connected to the new part, pull the plastic knob off of the old switch to reveal the screws on front of the panel. Place the new switch where the old one came from and fasten the screws back in place. Replace the knob, replace the back panel(for safety) and test the new switch before you push the oven back into place. If you can turn a screw driver, move the oven, and unplug the power, this easy do it yourself repair will save you possibly hundreds by not calling a repair/handyman who would absolutely love you to pay out the nose for such an easy task.

Replace the switch in the control panel. Had to take off the back of the range and remove the electrical conection and then pull the switch by unscrewing the screws that hold it into place. The n replacing the switch and then reconnecting the wires then testing. Worked fine.

After making sure it was the switches themselves not the burners that were the problem, it was easy locating the exact parts I needed on PartSelect and the shipment arrived in a timely manner. I had to replace two out of four switches. Using a screwdriver, I detached the display pannel and removed the faulty switches. Then I disconnected the old wires and attached them to the new switches, one at a time. Closed everything up and the "new" range works great!

Large burner would cycle on and off per temp setting a few times. Then it would stick on high. Read other problems people had with the burner switch, which helped to determine the problem. Instillation per video was pretty straight forward; but the issue I ran into was when pulling off the wires from old switch, there was a short wire which connected to the indicator light. The abrupt release yanked the wire which caused the lens indicator to snap. So, when you are repairing the switch, be aware if there is enough slack in the wires to prevent that issue

Removed 2 back screws, lifted pan from rear and pushed front slightly forward/into oven until front lip cleared. Installed new pan in reverse order.

I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.