CFEF372EC3 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

removed the door from the range. removed the 4 layers of glass and carefully set aside the unbroken ones. the 3rd and 4th glasses were held together with a metal frame which had to be dismantled. The old broken glass was rusted and hard to get out of the frame. It had to be cleaned thoroughly of broken glass and rust. the removal process could then be reversed to assemble the parts and re assemble the door to the front of the range

Husband/wife effort. We located our manual for removing the door and followed instructions. (It's probably online as well.) With the door off, we removed the screws on the side with the defective hinge, took out the old hinge and put in the new one. In trying to replace the door, we couldn't get the lock (upside-down u-shaped piece on the hinge) to rotate over the hinge lever hook on the new hinge. It looked slightly different than the other side (had a bit more hook on it that was in the way). PartSelect sent a new hinge in case the other was defective. (The first arrived in 2 days; the second in 3. No extra charge. Very pleased with the service!) Same trouble. So we filed off the tip of the hook and were able to move the lock in place and put the door back on. The door is not heavy anymore, but doesn't pull in tightly at the top. We thought about taking it off again and trying to position the new hinge a little better to see if it will fit perfectly (it slants down a little compared to the other side.) But it's not so loose at the top that the oven light comes on, so it's usable the way it is. And it looks good, so we're leaving it.

I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti

Removed outer glass first ,then worked my way thru to inner glass..

I went to you-tube and found a video that told me how to remove and expose the hinge. That was all I needed. One stubborn screw was all the problem I had and it was replaced. Thank you for saving me lots of money!! It's working great and I would buy from Part Select again!

I was unable to loosen the screws myself so I called my friends husband to help me. We watched the video together and followed the instructions. The door in the video was a bit different than mine but this repair was easy.

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

Figured out that light and door switch started the convection fan on when door is closed. Found the switch defective. Found exploded view online of switch in oven. Had to figure out that the range top needed to be removed to access the switch from inside the top part of oven. Unscrewed at least (6) screws to free up the range top. Squeezed the inside switch clips to allow switch to be pulled out from outside of oven. Disconnected electrical receptacle and plugged into new switch. Pushed in new switch til it snapped into place. Reinstalled range top.