CFEF3012UWC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Ordered new racks and replaced them.

Un plugged from elec. took off back, and removed burned out part, and put new one in place. and it worked.

Thanks!!

Ps:we saved over $250.00

At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.

I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.

Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.

Unscrewed upper back panel of stove. Connected wires from old part to new part one at a time. Then unscrewed old part from stove. After that I screwed the new part to the stove. Replaced upper back panel. Finished.

Slid oven out removed one screw one plug replaced part took 5 minutes.told parts repair the error message and they sent me the correct part in two days will use them again saved me from Repair man wanted 85 dollars just to look at it my cost was 28 for probe and 8 dollars for shipping already helped neighbor with their stove they needed new ignighter 12 dollars repair place want 110 to come look at it this site walks you through repair best service!!!!

The light apparatus was loose behind the panel. Remove the remaining part of the lens. Install the new lens from the outside of the panel and hold it in position, protruding into the inside of the panel. Slide the light apparatus onto the lens from the inside, allowing the bracket to hold it in place - it will be spring loaded, which will hold it in place.

bought drip bowl from big box store and the 8 inch did not fit . yours fit perfect will use you for future diy jobs thank you

I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.

first i remove cover, then i unscrew defective part, remove wires. i then install new part & replace marked wires . I then replace cover, turn on oven and holla! my oven is working.

I had already switched off the breaker for the range, so I unplugged the unit and moved it out from the wall. I removed the screws on the rear cover and exposed the clock/timer. I then removed the four screws holding the clock/timer,used my pocket knife to gently pry the wires off of the old unit one at a time, as these were very tight. Holding the new clock/timer in my other hand I installed the wires one at a time to match the original clock timer wiring.I installed the clock/timer, the range back cover, slid the range back into place, plugged it in and turned on the breaker. My wife is happy, I am too.
A repair shop wanted $100.00 just to go to our home and look at our range. We spent $104.00 plus $20.00 for the new overlay, fifteen minutes of my time, a real bargin!
Thank you PartSelect, I'll be ordering from you again!

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

Discovered that that oven control panel was to blame for both heating elements to stop working at the same time. Went online and ordered the part which was delivered in 2 days. Installation very basic and included the following: 1)Pulled out stove and un-plugged stove 2)Removed top rear panel 3) Removed 4 screws of the damaged control panel (leaving all wires plugged in) 4)Installed new control panel and connected wires one by one to make sure done correctly 5) Replaced rear panel plugged in stove testing oven.

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

I just pulled the old ones out of the sockets, cleaned underneath, and replaced with new ones. No-brainer.

The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.