FPEF3077QFG Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Removed bottom drawer. Pulled Range out away from the wall. Unplugged Range. Removed 6 screws from top back cover. Removed top back cover to reveal the Infinite Switches behind the knobs. Pulled the knobs off of the Switches I wanted to change. Removed the 2 Phillips Head screws holding each switch. Pulled the wires off of the old Infinite Switch and put them on the new Infinite Switch. I was careful to put each wire on the correct terminal from old to new switch. I then reassembled the Range in reverse order. I changed both 8" Burner Infinite Switches. I was only having trouble with 1 switch. But, upon inspection. Both Switches had burn marks on the top left of the switch.

Initially we realized there was a problem while cooking with the large eyes and we began hearing an electrical short behind the control switch. I unplugged the power from the oven/cooktop and removed the back panel where I could visually see soot on the switches where it was shorted. Careful while choosing your part from the diagram on Partselect.com. For the model FEF336ECJ, atleast for my oven, the eye switches were reversed and I ordered the small eye's switches! Luckily they have an outstanding customer support and immediately mailed out the new parts and a label to send the wrong parts back. Changing the parts out was very simple. Pull the oven out and UNPLUG IT from any electrical outlet. Remove the back panel. Double check from the label on the front of the control panel that you are working with the correct switch, and before removing the current switch, remove the wires one by one and place them on the new part to make sure you don't misplace these wires. Once the wires are connected to the new part, pull the plastic knob off of the old switch to reveal the screws on front of the panel. Place the new switch where the old one came from and fasten the screws back in place. Replace the knob, replace the back panel(for safety) and test the new switch before you push the oven back into place. If you can turn a screw driver, move the oven, and unplug the power, this easy do it yourself repair will save you possibly hundreds by not calling a repair/handyman who would absolutely love you to pay out the nose for such an easy task.

Large burner would cycle on and off per temp setting a few times. Then it would stick on high. Read other problems people had with the burner switch, which helped to determine the problem. Instillation per video was pretty straight forward; but the issue I ran into was when pulling off the wires from old switch, there was a short wire which connected to the indicator light. The abrupt release yanked the wire which caused the lens indicator to snap. So, when you are repairing the switch, be aware if there is enough slack in the wires to prevent that issue

Checked the burner and no power to heat the burner. removed the old switch and put on the new one.

Confirm the problem and check electrical diagram to see if there was any other circuit in the syatem that could cause the burner to stay on , remove back cover and inspect switch contacts, found them burnt , look up parts for the model number and replace it.

Followed video instructions on your web site.Removing one wire at a time as suggested simplified installation.Somehow i lost burner lens indicator.Ordered it from your website cost $3.84 plus shipping recieved in one day. GREAT SERVICE

I followed the Parts Select Video that showed replacing an identical switch. Mine were another brand & style with different color wires. I took a picture of 1 to keep track of the wiring and removed it. I saw that the terminals were marked P, H1, H2, L1, & L2 so I put the wire from the same terminal onto the Parts Select switches & they work just fine now. The parts I got from you are heavier and a much better quality than the original equipment. I would also like to say that I was amazed at how fast this order was shipped, and the washer pump was a piece of cake thanks to your video.

The video was a great help. I could have replaced the switch without watching it, but it gave me confidence that I was doing it right. Everything went just like he said it would. Burner seems to work better now and no more scary noises.

Took back cover off 2 screws held the switch then moved wires one at a time from old switch to the new one put everything back plugged in stove everything worked

I watched you vedio and done just as the vedio told me how to change the switch. When I got the switch on pluged it in turned it on and every thing work great. thank you very much.

Pulled the range out, unplugged it, removed upper back panel, inserted lens through front of control panel, slid the notch on the actual light onto the lip on the back of the plastic lens. Done!

Replaced the oven probe because a no heat problem. also had to replace the oven control. That was a bit expensive but still saved me hundreds not calling a serviceman. By the way, it works like new.....

Removed the heating element to prevent possible fire while waiting on the parts. Three nut-driver screws removed the back cover. Removed each of four wires and attached to new burner switch, one-at-a-time to prevent any screwups with reconnecting the switch. Unscrewed the old switch, Screwed in the new switch to the front panel. Replaced the back panel and *poof*, good as new. Took as long to repair as it did to write this description.

After making sure it was the switches themselves not the burners that were the problem, it was easy locating the exact parts I needed on PartSelect and the shipment arrived in a timely manner. I had to replace two out of four switches. Using a screwdriver, I detached the display pannel and removed the faulty switches. Then I disconnected the old wires and attached them to the new switches, one at a time. Closed everything up and the "new" range works great!

Moved the stove. Used the template to position the bracket. Put the supplied screws to attach bracket to the floor. Slid stove back into place. DONE!