CLEH3054UFA Frigidaire Range - Instructions

My husband followed the video instructions and it was easy to fix.

The light apparatus was loose behind the panel. Remove the remaining part of the lens. Install the new lens from the outside of the panel and hold it in position, protruding into the inside of the panel. Slide the light apparatus onto the lens from the inside, allowing the bracket to hold it in place - it will be spring loaded, which will hold it in place.

Took out 2 screws, removed panel.
When you put the panel in don’t push it tight to the front or the screws won’t align. Just place in gently and the screws will align

removed the old burner and put the new one in it's place.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

When the part arrived, I open the box. Cut off my breaker to the range. Pulled back the stove and unscrewed the back. Located the probe, unscrewed the one screw that held it in. I then unclamped the white connectors, remove the old probe, replaced it with the new one reclamped the connectors. Screwed it back into the range. Replaced the back and screwed that back together. It was so easy I was very proud of my self. I cut the breaker back on and cooked a can of biscuits just to see if it really worked. And it did. My bread was not burned, it was cooked to perfection.

First of all I am not Betty, I am her husband. Second I and a friend pulled the range out of the countertop (which was not necessary). The top can be raised on it hinges and the plate under the burners can be removed by taking out 8 to 19 screws and there is the thermostat looking at you. After doing this once and knowing where the thermostat is, the job could be done in less that an hour.. INSTRUCTIONS: Turn OFF the circuit breaker. Remove the burners. Remove the plate under the burners. Change the thermostat (making sure to place in correct direction as the one removed). Reassemble, turn on circuit breaker, test oven heat.

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

Followed the parts select video. However there were differences. Four screws to release stovetop from brackets very difficult to break free even once correct bit identified. No spring clips but studded screw and coil springs let elements fall right off underside bracket. Need fours hands to hold back in place to screw bracket back in place to hold elements.

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it started but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

We carefully pulled the old seal out of the door ( staples hold it in place).Then took the replacement and laid it around the door. Starting at one side we adjusted the seal and pushed the staples into place. Making sure we folded the ends, we used a spoon to push them into the slots.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

moved the range out to access back
removed 5 screws from back panel
removed 1 screw from thermostat installed new one
replaced screws, done in 20 minutes
problem solved

Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.