FFEF3012UWB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

First I unplug the stove and then started to take off the back panel off behind the stove. Then I took the relay panel off by taking the four screws, that holds the relay in place. Now it took me a few minutes to unplug the wires
from the relay panel. Let me tell you that these wires were
really hard to pull off the relay. After a few minutes later
then I started to put the new relay panel back on. The wires were easy to put back on the new relay. Then I put the back panel back on and then plug the stove back in. After that the power was back on and the new panel fixed my issue.

Used a nut driver to take off upper silver back off. Took one wire off at a time and rewired new timer. Used same nut driver to remove old timer,stuck on old cover on new timer and screwed it it. Rescrewed back on, plugged it in and it works great.

I saw a chart of the oven door at site after I finally got the model number. I actually thought I had ordered the wrong part, third door in was last pane I thought, but actually this is inner most oven door, glass panel four. I had to find a correct screw diver which took awhile. I thought I didn't have the strength to turn the necessary screws, but easily could with correct screw driver. I followed other stories about removing handle, spring loaded door, so be careful it pops apart. A bit tricky to put back together, cause you have to hold door together against spring when you put cap on and door handle. Remove handle, remove top plastic cap. Will see screws holding glass and aluminum shield in place. Remove shield, need to remove screws holding glass two panes with holder. Shield pulls back and this glass just drops in. Reassemble door.

replaced it

my dad and i did it together and it was easy. just had to remove the screws on the outside oven door pull the door apart, remove the old glass and put in the new and put the screws back in. hardest part was to get some of the screws out because they had been in so long.

The repair shop wanted 150 dollars to fix it. I ordered the glass and replaced it myself. It was really easy and all I need was a screwdriver. It took me about 30 minutes total.

It went okay but I had to have some help putting it back together. One person held the glass while the other person tightened the screws.

Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to join the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)

First I removed the oven door screws, then I removed the outer handle and then there were 2 more sets of screws that actually held 2 panes of glass onto the door.

First I took the door off. Then I removed about a dozen screws. Than my wife insisited on cleaning the other two windows! Since the inside window was broken ;a lot of grease had gotten on the other two windows.She said she would never have another chance. After that I put everything back together. It took about an hour all together.

real easy with no problems, thank you

Very simple with instructions supplied, Removed two screws inside on back of door, then removed four more screws to get to inner glass,removed broken glass installed new glass, replaced all screws.Job completed. very good instructions,Thank You.

took screws on outer sides and then removed glass put in new glass replaced screws done

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

Statistics said it was the element. I replaced that this did not correct problem. Went with the second statistic and it was correct. I showed the video to my tenant and he replaced it and called me in a few minutes saying it worked fine. Look at the video then it will be easy for you. The only thing in the video that was not clear is that you have to peel the sticker off of the front of the old clock and attach it to the new one. Everything else is exactly like it says.