FFEF3012UBB Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Very simple with instructions supplied, Removed two screws inside on back of door, then removed four more screws to get to inner glass,removed broken glass installed new glass, replaced all screws.Job completed. very good instructions,Thank You.

Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.

I read some other's repairs from this site with similiar symptoms. Take off the back takes a couple of minutes. Turn off power at the breaker of course the range is 220 volts. Remove the 4 screws holding the clock timer. Carefully remove the clock front as not to damage it. It has a flexible glue that holds it. You may need to take a knife to get it started. Line it up and stick it on the new clock timer, there will be plenty of glue left to hold it. Remove wires one at a time and place them on the new board as you go until you have all leads changed to the new board. Put the new timer in place and insert the 4 screws that hold it.Turn it on and the clock should be flashing. Reset the clock and you should be ready to go! I turned on the oven and it worked! I saved myself a about $250 by doing it myself. $85 for a service call and whatever they would decided to mark up for the clock timer. 20 minutes start to finish. It really was an easy fix!

Replaced the control I got from you , even though it was a little different the lugs matched up and works great.

Looked up the appliance and the suspect part.(clock/timer). It described the part and what problem it would fix.(no power to oven) Part shipped very fast and installation was quick and easy!!! They even had a installation video!! You can`t get any better than that!!!

Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.

Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked the first time.

The infinite switch arrived promptly and while not a perfect match fit the range fine. It took me a few extra minutes to figure out the wiring configuration, but it was fairly easy. I was very pleased with Parts Select's service.

I watched the video to make sure I understood what I needed to do. I did just as the video right down to installing the new one before replacing the wires, which was the hardest part the connectors were on tight. Replaced all screws tested to see if oven worked which it did. Thanks for the video.

Large burner would cycle on and off per temp setting a few times. Then it would stick on high. Read other problems people had with the burner switch, which helped to determine the problem. Instillation per video was pretty straight forward; but the issue I ran into was when pulling off the wires from old switch, there was a short wire which connected to the indicator light. The abrupt release yanked the wire which caused the lens indicator to snap. So, when you are repairing the switch, be aware if there is enough slack in the wires to prevent that issue

Took back cover off 2 screws held the switch then moved wires one at a time from old switch to the new one put everything back plugged in stove everything worked

Checked the burner and no power to heat the burner. removed the old switch and put on the new one.

Confirm the problem and check electrical diagram to see if there was any other circuit in the syatem that could cause the burner to stay on , remove back cover and inspect switch contacts, found them burnt , look up parts for the model number and replace it.

I am an electrician so I had no problem identifying wire and connecting them properly. However there were no instructions provided with the part and the configuration of the new switch was different than the the old one. I doubt if a DIY individual would have been capable of handling this task. Also there were no safety warning with respect to electrical repairs, which is a must today.

Followed video instructions on your web site.Removing one wire at a time as suggested simplified installation.Somehow i lost burner lens indicator.Ordered it from your website cost $3.84 plus shipping recieved in one day. GREAT SERVICE